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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Autumn Doll Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

Abbreviations

ch – chain stitch
MR – magic ring
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
sl st – slip stitch
dc3tog cluster – bobble stitch crochet
inc – increase (2 sc in 1 stitch)
dec – decrease (2 stitches together)
blo – back loops only
flo – front loops only
(..)*х – repeat Х times
(n) – number of stitches in the round

Materials and tools

The doll with hat turns out 11.81 inches (30cm) when
using these materials and tools.

Alize cotton gold
Yarn Type: 55% cotton 45% acrylic
Yarn Weight: 100 g / 330 m

382 – flesh-color 485 – green 493- brown

Alize Cotton Gold Tweed
Yarn Type: 55% cotton 45% acrylic
Yarn Weight: 100 g / 330 m

Black and white thread for design

Hook 1.75mm
10mm safety eyes
Blunt-end needle
Filler
Pins
Wire

Head

Work in flesh-color.

6sc in MR
6inc (12)
(sc, inc)*6 (18)
(2sc, inc)*6 (24)
(3sc, inc)*6 (30)
2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)
(5sc, inc)*6 (42)
3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)
(7sc, inc)*6 (54)
4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)
60sc
(9sc, inc)*6 (66)
66sc
16sc, inc, 32sc, inc, 16sc (68)
15-25. 68sc (11 rounds)
16sc, dec, 32sc, dec, 16sc (66)
66sc
15sc, dec, 32sc, dec, 15sc (64)
(14sc, dec)*4 (60)
4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)
(7sc, dec)*6 (48)
Insert the eyes between rounds 23-24 at a distance
of 10-12sc.
Start stuffing.
Head
(4sc, dec)*8 (40)
(3sc, dec)*8 (32)
(2sc, dec)*8 (24)
(2sc, dec)*6 (18)
Fasten the yarn, cut it, hide the end.
Stuff to the end.

Hair

Work in brown.

6sc in MR
6inc (12)
(sc, inc)*6 (18)
(2sc, inc)*6 (24)
(3sc, inc)*6 (30)
Make the strands of hair:
6-23. 35ch.
From the 3rd ch from the hook:
31hdc, 2sc, sl st in the next sc (18 strands of hair)
21ch.
From the 3rd ch from the hook:
17hdc, 2sc, sl st in the next sc (1 strand of hair)
17ch.
From the 3rd ch from the hook:
13hdc, 2sc, sl st in the next sc (1 strand of hair)
26-33. 13ch.
From the 3rd ch from the hook:
9hdc, 2sc, sl st in the next sc (8 strands of hair)
17ch.
From the 3rd ch from the hook:
13hdc, 2sc, sl st in the next sc (1 strand of hair)
21ch.
From the 3rd ch from the hook:
17hdc, 2sc, sl st in the next sc (1 strand of hair)
Hair
Fasten the yarn, cut, leave a long end for sewing.

Place the hair on the head.
Align the center of the MR of the hair with
the center of the MR on the head.
Fix the location of the hair with a pin.
Put all the strands in place, start with the smallest
strand. Fix the location of the strands with pins.

Sew the strands one by one.
The next stage of hair design (hairstyle) I recommend
to do after the head will be sewn to the body.

Head design

With white thread, embroider the whites of the eyes.
Embroider the eyebrows, eyelashes with black
thread.
Embroider the nose with flesh-color yarn.

Hands (make 2)

Start in flesh-color.

6sc in MR
(1sc, inc)*3 (9)
sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*2, sc (12)
12sc
5sc, dec, 5sc (11)
5sc, dc3tog cluster, 5sc (11)

4sc, dec, 3sc, dec (9)
9sc
4sc, dec, 3sc (8)
Stuff a little only the palm.
8sc
Change the color to milky. Fasten the flesh-color
yarn, cut it off, hide the end.
Leave the long end of milky yarn (11.8-15.8 in)
hanging outside (we will need it later for crocheting
around the sleeve).
8sc
blo 8sc
13-24. 8sc (12 rounds)
Fold the piece in half,
so that the bobble
stitch in round 6 were
turned parallel to the
fold line.
You may need to make
extra sc. Close both
sides together with 4sc.
Fasten the yarn, cut it.

Crochet around on the sleeve.
Hold the piece with the palm (flesh-color part) away
from you.
Use the hanging milky yarn.
Make flo of 12fth round 8sl st.
Fasten the yarn, cut, and hide the end.
Repeat the same on the 2nd hand

Legs (make 2)

Start in yellow.

Make 5ch.
From the 2nd ch from the hook
inc, 2sc, 4sc in 1ch, on the other side of the
chain 3sc (11)
2inc, 2sc, 4inc, 2sc, inc (18)
(sc, inc)2, 2sc, (sc, inc)4, 3sc, inc (25)
(2sc, inc)2, 2sc, (2sc, inc)4, 4sc, inc (32)
Let’s make the insoles. Circle the part on cardboard
or plastic, cut it out, try it on, and put it aside for
now.
Make two insoles for two shoes at once.
The beginning of the round is on the back of the leg
(in the middle of the heel). For this, I make extra
4sc in 4th round.
blo 32sc
Using hot glue, glue the insole.

6-8. 32sc (3 rounds)

10sc, (sc, dec)*4, 10sc (28)
8sc, (sc, dec)*4, 8sc (24)
8sc, 4dec, 8sc (20)
Change the color to milky. Fasten, cut the yellow
yarn, hide the end.
blo
8sc, 2dec, 8sc (18)
(4sc, dec)*3 (15)
Stuff as you go.
14-24. 15sc (11 rounds)

Stuff as you go.
Change the color to flesh-color. Cut the milky yarn,
leaving the long end of it (15.8-19.7 in) hanging
outside (we will need it later).

blo 15sc
26-27. 15sc (2 rounds)
I recommend watching the beginning of the round
when you make knees. It should go strictly in the
middle of the back of the leg.
5sc, 5inc, 5sc (20)
20sc
5sc, 5dec, 5sc (15)
31-33. 15sc (3 rounds)
5sc, inc, 7sc, inc, sc (17)
17sc
6sc, inc, 8sc, inc, sc (19)
19sc
7sc, inc, 9sc, inc, sc (21)
39-44. 21sc (6 rounds)
Change the color to milky.
Fasten the flesh-color yarn,
cut it off, hide the end.
45-46. 21sc (2 rounds)
Fasten, cut the yarn on one leg.
Don’t cut the yarn on the 2nd
leg, continue to crochet.

Crochet around on the sock.
Hold the piece with the boot away from you.
Go back to round 25. Take a hanging yarn of
milky color. Make flo 15sl st.
Fasten the yarn, cut, and hide the end.

Make boots.

Hold the piece with the boot towards you.
Join the yellow yarn to round 12.
I recommend watching the beginning of the round
when you make boots. It should go strictly in the
middle of the back of the leg.

flo 20sc
2-6. 20sc (5 rounds)
4sc, 3ch, skip 3sc, 6sc, 3ch, skip 3sc, 4sc (20)
4sc, into the arch formed by ch 5sc, 6sc, into the
arch formed by ch 5sc, 4sc (24)
Fasten the yarn, cut, and hide the end.

Fasten, cut the yarn on one leg.
On this leg, mark the 12fth sc of the 46th round for
further legs connection.
On the second leg, make 10sc (don’t finish the
round). Don’t cut the yarn.
Maybe the marker place on one leg and the number
of sc will be different for you and me.
It depends on the yarn, hook number, density of
crocheting.
I advise you to mark the side center. In this place,
we will connect the legs. For this place, mark the
loop (first leg) or make the necessary number of sc
(second leg).

Body

Start from the 2nd leg.

2ch, join the 1st leg
21sc on the 1st leg, 2sc on ch, 21sc on the
2nd leg, 2sc on ch (46)
The beginning of the round goes on the back of
the part.

3-8. 46sc (6 rounds)

28sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 1sc
(44)
44 sc
27sc, dec, 12sc, dec, 1sc
(42)
42 sc
26sc, dec, 11sc, dec, 1sc
(40)
40sc
(8sc, dec)*4 (36)
16-17. 36sc (2 rounds)
Stuff as you go.
(7sc, dec)*4 (32)
32sc
(6sc, dec)*4 (28)
28sc
(5sc, dec)*4 (24)
24sc
(10sc, dec)*2 (22)
22sc
(9sc, dec)*2 (20)

Join the hands (the bobble stitch forward). I
advise you to pre-schedule the location of the
hands on the body and then join them. If your
numbers don’t match mine, then work
relative to the center of the part.
3sc, join the right hand, for this, make 4sc for
the hand and body loops together, 6sc, join the
left hand, for this, make 4sc for the hand and body
loops together, 3sc (20)
Change the color to
flesh-color.
Fasten the milky yarn,
cut it off, hide the end.
blo (8sc, dec)*2 (18)
29-31. 18sc (3 rounds)
Stuff the body to the end.
Fasten the yarn, cut, and
leave the long end
to sew on.

Crochet around on the neck.
Hold the piece with the legs towards you.
Go back to round 28, join the milky yarn.

flo 20sc
20sc
Fasten the yarn, cut, and hide the end.

Dress

Work in terra-cotta, work in rows.

27ch.
From the 2nd ch from the hook,
4sc, 5ch, skip 5ch, 8sc, 5ch, skip 5ch, 4sc (26)

ch, turn, 26sc
ch, turn, (12sc, inc)*2 (28)
ch, turn, (13sc, inc)*2 (30)
ch, turn, (14sc, inc)*2 (32)
ch, turn, (7sc, inc)*4 (36)
ch, turn, 4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*3, 4sc (40)
ch, turn, 40sc
ch, turn, (9sc, inc)*4 (44)
ch, turn, 5sc, inc, (10sc, inc)*3, 5sc (48)
ch, turn, 48sc
ch, turn, (11sc, inc)*4 (52)
ch, turn, 6sc, inc, (12sc, inc)*3, 6sc (56)
Dress
ch, turn, 56sc

ch, turn, (sc, inc)*28 (84)
16-25. ch, turn, 84sc (10 rows or to the desired
length)
Fasten the yarn, cut, and leave the long end to
sewing.

Embroider French Knots on the
dress with yellow yarn:

Bring the needle with yarn
from the wrong side to the right
side
Bring the needle to the place
where the yarn comes out of the
piece. Wrap the floss around the
needle 3 to 4 times.
Insert the needle into the
fabric near the point where the
yarn comes out on the right side.
Insert the needle with yarn to
the wrong side and pull the yarn
through the fabric to make a
French Knot.

Embroider French Knots all over the dress.
Fasten the yarn, cut, and leave the long end to
sewing.

Put the dress on the doll and sew the part using the
long end of the yarn.

Sew the head to the body, stuffing the neck as you
go.
You can additionally strengthen the neck using
sushi sticks or thick wire.

Hair ribbons
(make 2)

Work in yellow.

30ch.
Fasten and cut the yarn

Divide the long strands into two equal parts.
Make two braids.
Fix them with yellow ribbons.

Hat

While making the hat, make a try-on on the toy.
Don’t be afraid to make adjustments to the number
of rows or loops. You may need to do this
(differences in materials, hook, crocheting density,
or stuffing density).
Work in rows. Work in green.

27ch.
From the 3rd ch from the hook 25hdc.
2-29. ch, turn, blo 25hdc (28 rounds)
Fasten the yarn, cut, and leave the long end to
sewing.

Sew the piece using the yarn you left behind.
Fasten the yarn, do not cut it.

Pull the leftover yarn through all the rows.
Pull the hat tight, forming the top of the hat and
make a knot.

Use green yarn to make a pompom.
Sew it to the hat.

Scarf

Work in green, in rows.

7ch.
From the 3rd ch from the hook 5hdc.
2-55. ch, turn, blo 5hdc (54 rows or to the desired
length)
Fasten and cut the yarn, hide the end.

Make a fringe on the scarf with green yarn.

Glasses

1 Cut the wire length of 19.7-23.6in with pliers.

Measure the length of the glasses arm on the
doll’s head and bend the wire.
Take a cylinder shaped object, so that the circle
was the right diameter for us. Wrap 1.5 diameters
around the cylinder (parallel to the glasses arm),
bend to form the nose bridge.