Amigurumi Echidna Free Crochet Pattern

Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you.
As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. master crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi rabbit, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi unicorn , amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…
Don’t forget to subscribe to receive notifications of our new free recipes.

Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Echidna Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

Pattern abbreviations
The following abbreviations have been used in this book:
ch = chain stitch
dc = double crochet
dec = single crochet decrease
hdc = half double crochet
hdc2tog = half double crochet decrease 2 stitches into 1
inc = single crochet increase
inv dec = invisible decrease
inv sc3tog = put hook through front loops of first 2 stitches and
under both loops of third stitch, pull 1 loop through, complete as sc.
sc = single crochet
sc3tog = single crochet decrease 3 stitches into 1
slst = slip stitch
st(s) = stitches
tr = treble crochet

Crochet terminology
The patterns are all written using US crochet terms. If you are used
to working with UK terms, please note the following differences in
stitch names:

TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Yarn
The wonderful thing about amigurumi is that they can be made in any
yarn! For the projects in this book, I have used yarn from Paintbox
Yarns and Rico Designs, with the odd extra thrown in. At the start of
each project you will find a list of the exact yarn used and the number
of balls each sample took.
A thicker yarn will produce a bigger toy than the sample and will
require more yarn. If your chosen yarn is thinner than the sample the
result will be dinkier. When substituting yarns, I always compare the
length and weight of the yarn ball to the one listed in the pattern – if in
doubt it’s best to have an extra ball or you might find yourself playing
a game of yarn chicken!
While the samples are made in smooth yarns with texture added in
other ways, there are many other fibres to explore – try working with
chenille or faux fur as well as plain cotton to get a different result.
Hooks
Finding the right hook is key to a successful amigurumi project.
Luckily there are many options to try out and depending on how you
hold it in your hand some will be more comfortable than others. I hold
my hook like a pen and always use Clover Soft Touch hooks.
Tension (gauge)
To find out if your hook size is right for your yarn try making a small
tension swatch (see Tension swatch). For toys, the aim is to create a
dense, but not stiff, fabric with no gaps between stitches for stuffing
to show through. If the fabric feels too loose, try switching to a
smaller hook. If it’s too stiff and getting the hook into the next stitch is
a struggle, try going up to the next hook size.
Tension swatch
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Fasten off.
I recommend the following hook sizes in order to achieve the same
size as the samples:
DK cotton: 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Worsted wool: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
4-ply cotton held double: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
DK cotton held together with mohair: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Remember, these are just guidelines. The main aim is for you to
produce a crochet fabric that you will enjoy working with!
Other tools and materials
As well as the yarn and hook you will also need the following items.
TOY SAFETY EYES
Plain black eyes are used for most of the projects in this book, with a
size chosen that matches the proportion of each toy. But there are
many more unusual, sparkly or realistic toy eyes available online.
Embroidered eyes and sewn-on beads also work well; each element
you choose will add unique personality to your project. However, if
you are giving the toy to a small child, it’s best to stick to safety eyes
or embroidery.
TOY STUFFING
To give the toys their shape you will need to fill them with toy stuffing.
High-loft polyester stuffing is lightweight and versatile; you will find it
in your local haberdashery or online. If you prefer sticking to natural
fibres, pure wool or recycled cotton stuffing is a good alternative.
FABRIC STABILIZER
For some of the flatter details, a stabilizing insert will help the toy to
keep its shape. You can use thick wadding, felt or fabric stabilizer for
this – the key is to look for something flexible that bounces back into
shape when released.
WIRES
To help the animals hold their poses you can reinforce some parts
with wire or craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems). A coated wire, such
as 3mm (28-gauge) garden wire, works well for adding a lot of
support. Doubling up pipe cleaners adds just enough support to gently
adjust the shape.
SEWING PINS AND CLIPS
You will need to have some sewing pins handy when sewing together
the different elements of each creature. When joining larger pieces
together, sewing clips can work better than pins. Sewing clips can be
found in haberdashery shops.
TAPESTRY NEEDLE
For sewing creature parts together, choose a blunt-tipped tapestry
needle with a wide eye, so that the yarn is easy to draw through it.
The blunt tip will stop the yarn from splitting and protect the fingertips
from any prickles!
STITCH MARKERS
Marking the beginning of a round with a stitch marker can be very
helpful for keeping on track. You can use a removable stitch marker,
a safety pin, a bit of contrasting colour yarn or the yarn tail from the
start of the project.
WIRE BRUSH
An ordinary pet hairbrush is the perfect tool for making your crochet
creatures extra fluffy!

I have a bit of a soft spot for all spiky animals, and the
echidna is no exception. These charming, slow-moving
mammals walk with a delightful waddle, hibernate during the
colder months (smart!) and spend their days rummaging
around on the ground for ants and insects to eat. They have
long, toothless snouts, tiny mouths and extra-long sticky
tongues. Unusually, their body temperature is much lower
than other mammals, only 32°C (89°F); and, to top it all off,
they lay soft leathery eggs – what a unique mix!

Dimensions
20cm (8in) tall
Yarns
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% cotton) 125m (137yds) per 50g
(1¾oz) ball:
Light Green 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Pistachio Green (shade 425)
Dark Green 2 x 50g (1¾oz) balls in Racing Green (shade 428)
Pink 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Blush Pink (shade 454)
Hooks
3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Other tools and materials
Pair 10.5mm black safety eyes
Toy stuffing
Sewing pins
Tapestry needle

Tension (gauge)
Tension is not critical for this project, but if you want to match the
pattern shown here, make a small circular swatch using the chosen
yarn and hook (see Tools and materials: Tension swatch for the
swatch pattern).
When made in DK weight cotton with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
the swatch should measure 3.5cm (1⅜in) across.

Special stitches
Front loop only (FLO): Insert the hook under the front loop only
(see Crochet techniques: Front loops/back loops).
Back loop only (BLO): Insert the hook under the back loop only
(see Crochet techniques: Front loops/back loops).
Snout
Make 1, start in Dark Green yarn.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Sc in all 6 sts. [6]
Rounds 3–5: Change to Light Green, sc in all 6 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 6: (1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) 2 times. [10]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (photo 1)

Body
Make 1 in Light Green yarn.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Round 5: (3sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [30]
Round 6: (4sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [36]
Round 7: 12sc, (inc in next st, 1sc) 3 times, 12sc, (inc in next st,
1sc) 3 times. [42]
Round 8: 12sc, (2sc, inc in next st) 3 times, 12sc, (2sc, inc in next
st) 3 times. [48]
Rounds 9–13: Sc in all 48 sts. [5 rounds]
Next rounds add increases to mark the position of the nose.
Round 14: 6sc, 3sc in next st, 41sc. [50]
Round 15: 7sc, 3sc in next st, 42sc. [52]
Round 16: 8sc, 3sc in next st, 43sc. [54] (photo 2

Round 17: 8sc, FLO 3sc, both loops 7sc (inc in next st, 3sc) 3 times,
12sc (inc in next st, 3sc) 3 times. [60]
Round 18: 18sc, (4sc, inc in next st) 3 times, 12sc, (4sc, inc in next
st) 3 times. [66]
Round 19: 6sc, inv dec 3 times, 6sc, (inc in next st, 5sc) 3 times,
12sc, (inc in next st, 5sc) 3 times. [69]
Rounds 20–37: Sc in all 69 sts. [18 rounds] (photos 3 and 4)

Add safety eyes on either side of the nose between Rounds 16 and
17, approximately 10 stitches apart. (photo 5)

Round 38: (inv dec, 21sc) 3 times. [66]
Round 39: (inv dec, 9sc) 6 times. [60]
Round 40: (inv dec, 8sc) 6 times. [54]
Round 41: (inv dec, 7sc) 6 times. [48]
Round 42: (inv dec, 6sc) 6 times. [42]
Round 43: (inv dec, 5sc) 6 times. [36]
Round 44: (inv dec, 4sc) 6 times. [30]
Round 45: (inv dec, 3sc) 6 times. [24]
Round 46: (inv dec, 2sc) 6 times. [18]
Add lots of toy stuffing.
Round 47: (inv dec, 1sc) 6 times. [12]
Round 48: Inv dec 6 times. [6]
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Thread tail through front loops with a
tapestry needle and pull tight to close. (photo 6)

Paws
Make 4 in Light Green yarn.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 3 times, 6sc. [15]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 3 times, 6sc. [18]
Rounds 5–7: Sc in all 18 sts. [3 rounds]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (photo 7

Claws
Make 4 in Light Green yarn.
Row 1: (ch4, start 2nd ch from hook, work in 3rd loop/back hump,
2slst, 1sc) 4 times. [4 claws]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (photo 8)

Tongue
Make 1 in Pink yarn.
Ch9, start 2nd ch from hook, work in 3rd loop/back hump of the
chain.
Row 1: 8slst along the chain. [8]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (photo 9)

Let’s sew the pieces together before starting the back. Pin the paws
to the front of the body: the top paws should sit between Rounds 18
and 22 and the back ones between Rounds 30 and 34. Sew them
into in place, adding some stuffing into each paw. (photo 10)

Now pin the claws to the tip of each paw and stitch in place. (photo
11

Place the snout piece over the nose and sew into place. (photo 12)

Then sew the little pink tongue under the snout. (photo 13

It’s now time to make the spiky back: this is a little time consuming
but the end result will be fab! Alternatively, you could try making the
spiky back using loose yarn threads in the same way as cassowary
feathers are made (see Bizarre birds & irregular reptiles:
Cassowary).
Spiky back
Make 1 in Dark Green yarn. Work in rows, turning at the end of each
row. Spikes are added on every other round.
Ch13, start 2nd ch from hook.
Row 1: 12sc, turn. [12]
Row 2: (ch7, start 2nd ch from hook, 4slst, 2sc, slst in BLO of next
st) 12 times, turn. [12 spikes] (photos 14 and 15

Row 3: BLO, ch, (inc in next st, 3sc) 3 times, turn. [15] (photo 16)

Row 4: (ch8, start 2nd ch from hook, 5slst, 2sc, slst in BLO of next
st) 15 times, turn. [15 spikes]
Row 5: BLO, ch1, (2sc, inc in next st) 5 times, turn. [20]
Row 6: (ch9, start 2nd ch from hook, 6slst, 2sc, slst in BLO of next
st) 20 times, turn. [20 spikes]
Row 7: BLO, ch1, (inc in next st, 1sc) 10 times, turn. [30]
Row 8: (ch10, start 2nd ch from hook, 6slst, 3sc, slst in BLO of next
2 sts) 15 times, turn. [15 spikes] (photo 17)

Row 9: BLO, ch1, 7sc, 16hdc, 7sc. [30] (photo 18)

Row 10: Ch1, (slst in BLO of next st, ch11, start 2nd ch from hook,
7slst, 3sc, slst in BLO of next st) 15 times, turn. [15 spikes]
Row 11: BLO, ch1, 7sc, 16hdc, 7sc. [30]
Row 12: (ch12, start 2nd ch from hook, 8slst, 3sc, slst in BLO of next
2 sts) 15 times, turn. [15 spikes]
Row 13: BLO, ch1, inc in next st, 6sc, 16hdc, 6sc, inc in next, turn.
[32]
Row 14: (ch12, start 2nd ch from hook, 8slst, 3sc, slst in BLO of next
2 sts) 16 times, turn. [16 spikes]
Row 15: BLO, ch1, 7sc, 18hdc, 7sc, turn. [32]
Row 16: Ch1, (slst in BLO of next st, ch12, start 2nd ch from hook,
8slst, 3sc, slst in BLO of next st) 16 times, turn. [16 spikes]
Row 17: BLO, ch1, hdc in all 32 sts, turn. [32]
Row 18: (ch12, start 2nd ch from hook, 8slst, 3sc, slst in BLO of next
2 sts) 16 times, turn. [16 spikes]
Row 19: BLO, ch2, dc in all 32 sts, turn. [32]
Row 20: (ch12, start 2nd ch from hook, 8slst, 3sc, slst in BLO of next
2 sts) 16 times, turn. [16 spikes]
Rows 21–36: Repeat Rows 19 and 20 eight more times. [16 rows]
(photos 19 and 20

There should now be 18 rows with spikes on them – don’t worry if
you end up with extra spikes, the more the better!
Row 37: BLO, ch1, hdc2tog, 28hdc, hdc2tog, turn. [30]
Row 38: (ch10, start 2nd ch from hook, 6slst, 3sc, slst in BLO of next
2 sts) 15 times, turn. [15 spikes]
Row 39: BLO, ch1, dec, 4sc, 18hdc, 4sc, dec. [28]
Row 40: (ch8, start 2nd ch from hook, 5slst, 2sc, slst in BLO of next
2 sts) 14 times, turn. [14 spikes]
Row 41: BLO, ch1, 4sc, dec, 16hdc, inv dec, 4sc. [26]
Row 42: Ch1, slst in BLO of next st, (ch6, start 2nd ch from hook,
4slst, 1sc, slst in BLO of next 2 sts) 12 times, slst in BLO of next st,

turn. [12 spikes]
Row 43: (ch6, start 2nd ch from hook, 4slst, 1sc, slst in BLO of next
2 sts) 13 times. [13 spikes]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Centre the spiky back piece above the eyes and stitch down the top
row. (photo 21