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Amigurumi Fancy Frog Crochet Pattern

Hello dear Amigurumi KNITTING LOVERS
Today, we share one free amigurumi crochet pattern for you. As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. Main crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi bunny, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unigurumi lambs, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi bees, amigurumi dinosaurs, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…

Today’s daily new crochet pattern Amigurumi Fancy Frog Crochet Pattern without amigurumi
I want to give you some information about this pattern;

MATERIALS (what I recommend in parentheses)

Yarn: Lightweight yarn (light-worsted, DK, or 4-ply) (Rico Creative Ricorumi DK)
Frog – Ricorumi DK in Pea Green (#077)
Hat – Ricorumi DK in Wine Red (#029)
Hat spots – Ricorumi DK in Cream (#002)
Hook: 2.75mm (C) hook (Clover Amour)
Toy stuffing (Fairfield Poly-Fil)
Stitch markers (Clover Quick Locking Stitch Markers Medium – I LOVE these, they don’t leave big
holes in your work!)
2/10
Safety eyes: size 9mm (Sumaju 200pc Safety Eyes)
Embroidery floss or lightweight yarn for face embroidery
Black for mouth and nose – Ricorumi DK in Black (#060)
White for eye accent – Ricorumi DK in Cream (#002)
Embroidery needle (DMC Embroidery Needles)
Tapestry needle (DMC Tapestry Needle Size 16)
Scissors (Gingher Stork Scissors)
Optional: pink blush and brush or cotton bud for cheeks

FINISHED SIZE

he finished height of the frog amigurumi is 7 inches. Keep your tension tight and consistent to avoid
stuffing showing through. My finished crochet frog is 7 inches long when using a 2.75 mm hook and
Ricorumi Cotton DK yarn. You can use other hook and yarn combinations to make your frog amigurumi
bigger or smaller. Just make sure your stitches are tight to avoid stuffing showing through. Check out
this blog post to learn about yarn and hook exchanges to change the size of your amigurumi.

STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS

ch – chain
ch st – chain stitch
inc – single crochet increase
inv dec – invisible decrease
rnd(s) – round(s)
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
_x – the number of times to repeat the steps in brackets
[ ] – Repeat steps between brackets for the specified number of times
( ) – The number of stitches you should have at the end of each round

NOTES

All sections are worked in a continuous round, except feet which are worked in rows.
Mark the beginning of each round with a stitch marker.
All stitches are written in US terminology.
Demonstration photos are shown using right-handed crochet.
When crocheting into a chain, I crochet into the back bump of the chain. If you’re not familiar with
crocheting in the back bump of chain stitches, check out this blog post.
For attaching pieces, I use the seamless join method from Planet June.

EYE 1

  • • • Work into back bump of chain stitches and then, when you turn to work down other side of
    chain, work into front and back loop of chain stitches. • • •
    rnd 1: Ch 4, sc 1 into 2nd ch st from hook, sc 1, sc 3 into next ch st, turn to work down other side of ch,
    sc 1, inc 1 (8 sts)
    rnd 2: [sc 3, inc 1] 2x (10 sts)
    rnd 3: sc 2, inc 1, sc 4, inc 1, sc 1, sl st 1 (12 sts)
    Fasten off, leaving a 15-inch tail for attaching. Weave in and cut beginning yarn tail. Set aside until after
    eye 2 is made.

EYE 2

Repeat rnds 1-3 from Eye 1, don’t fasten off. Remove stitch marker.

  • • • WEAVE IN OR CUT YARN TAILS (EXCEPT WORKING YARN) BEFORE CONTINUING. • • •

HEAD/BODY

rnd 1: Connecting the eyes. See photos for reference.

step 1: ch 4

step 2: making sure the chain isn’t twisted between eyes and the tops of both eyes are facing down, sl st 1 into last s

step 3: sc 1, place stitch marker (this will mark the first stitch of your rounds going forward), sc 11 around eye 1

step 4: sc 4 into back bump of ch sts

step 5: sc 12 around eye 2

tep 6: sc 4 into top of ch sts (32 sts)
rnd 2: sc 4, inc 3, sc 13, inc 3, sc 9 (38 sts)
rnd 3: sc 7, inc 1, [sc 4, inc 1, sc 4] 2x, inc 1, sc 11 (42 sts)
rnds 4-9: sc around (42 sts for 6 rnds)

  • • • MAKE FACE NOW • • •

Use the picture above as a guide for placement. First, insert the safety eyes between rnds 2 and 3 of
eye pieces. After attaching the backing of the safety eye, I used a strong scissor to cut off most of the
back post so it would fit in the eye piece. Using lightweight white yarn or embroidery floss and
embroidery needle, add 2 long stitches to the right side of each eye as an accent. Using lightweight
black yarn or embroidery floss and embroidery needle, make two small vertical stitches at the center of
the face for the nose holes. The mouth is made with 2 long horizontal stitches that meet in the center of
the face. You can also use blush and a small brush or cotton bud to apply blushy cheeks above the
frog’s mouth!

  • • •
    rnd 10: [sc 5, inv dec 1] 6x (36 sts)
    rnd 11: [sc 5, inc 1] 6x (42 sts)
    rnd 12: [sc 3, inc 1, sc 3] 6x (48 sts)
    rnd 13: [sc 7, inc 1] 6x (54 sts)
    rnds 14-21: sc around (54 sts for 8 rnds)
    rnd 22: [sc 7, inv dec 1] 6x (48 sts)
    rnd 23: [sc 3, inv dec 1, sc 3] 6x (42 sts)
    rnd 24: [sc 5, inv dec 1] 6x (36 sts)
    rnd 25: [sc 2, inv dec 1, sc 2] 6x (30 sts)
    rnd 26: [sc 3, inv dec 1] 6x (24 sts)
  • • • STUFF FROG NOW & CONTINUE STUFFING UNTIL END. STOP HERE AND COMPLETE
    STEPS 1-4 OF THE MAKING THE BUTT PHOTO TUTORIAL BELOW BEFORE CONTINUING.• • •
    rnd 27: [sc 1, inv dec 1, sc 1] 6x (18 sts)
    rnd 28: [sc 1, inv dec 1] 6x (12 sts)
    rnd 29: inv dec 6 (6 sts)
    Sl st 1 into next st. Fasten off and cut yarn, leaving a 16-inch yarn tail for closing ending hole and
    making butt crack. Don’t close opening yet! See steps 5-8 of the photo tutorial below to finish Frog’s
    little butt

MAKING THE BUTT

Time to make those sweet cheeks! Fancy Frog’s butt is easily formed using the yarn tail and 2 small
balls of toy stuffing. The photo tutorial below will show you how to do it!

step 1: after completing rnd 25 of frog, form 2 small balls of stuffing about 1.5 inches in diameter for the cheeks.

step 2: on side opposite face, insert stuffing ball into opening for first cheek.
step 3: press ball into stitches to slightly stretch out cheek and make it more pronounced.
step 4: repeat on other side to make 2 butt cheeks. Finish stuffing the frog. Complete rnds 27-29 of frog before movin

step 5: finish off your piece by sewing the last rnd closed. Insert threaded tapestry needle through center of hole and
between sts under rnd 17, between stuffing balls.
step 6: Make a long line with yarn tail to make butt crack, inserting your needle between sts under rnd 28.
step 7: bring needle through another part of frog’s body and pull yarn tail tightly so the butt crack is defined between t
step 8: weave the yarn tail through several stitches on 2 rnds of the frog to make it extra secure. Then bring yarn tail
again and cut yarn tail close to body.

LEG (MAKE 2)

rnd 1: sc 6 into a magic ring (6 sts)
rnd 2: [inc 1, sc 1] 3x (9 sts)
rnds 3-20: sc around (9 sts for 18 rnds)
Fasten off and leave an 8-inch yarn tail for attaching. Don’t stuff. Using tapestry needle, attach to frog
body in the stitches marked in the photo below.

FOOT (MAKE 2)

row 1: ch 4, [sl st 1 into next ch st, ch 3, sc 1 in 2nd ch st from hook, sc 1 in next ch st] 3x, sl st 1 into
same ch st as last “toe” (makes 3 little frog toes)
Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail for attaching to leg. Using tapestry needle, attach to frog leg in the
stitches marked in the photo below.

ARM (MAKE 2)

rnd 1: sc 6 into magic ring (6 sts)
rnd 2: [inc 1, sc 2] 2x (8 sts)
rnds 3-14: sc around (8 sts for 12 rnds)
Fasten off, leaving a 8-inch tail for attaching. Don’t stuff. Using tapestry needle, attach to frog body in
the stitches marked in the photo below.

TOADSTOOL HAT

The Toadstool Hat is made using red and white yarn. Change yarn to white for 1 stitch to make a spot. I
didn’t detail where to place the white spots on your Toadstool Hat as I just sprinkled them randomly
throughout each round – making each hat unique! I placed white spots from rnds 2-9 of my hat, keeping
rnds 1 and 10 just red.
rnd 1: sc 7 into a magic ring (7 sts)
rnd 2: inc 7 (14 sts)
rnd 3: [sc 1, inc 1] 7x (21 sts)
rnd 4: [sc 1, inc 1, sc 1] 7x (28 sts)
rnd 5: [sc 3, inc 1] 7x (35 sts)
rnd 6: [sc 2, inc 1, sc 2] 7x (42 sts)
rnds 7-8: sc around (42 sts for 2 rnds)
rnd 9: [sc 2, inv dec 1, sc 2] 7x (35 sts)
rnd 10: [sc 3, inv dec 1] 7x (28 sts)
Fasten off, leaving an 18-inch tail for attaching. Using the photo below as a guide, attach the hat to the
frog’s head behind the left eye.

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