Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers
Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you. As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. master crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi rabbit, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi unicorn , amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…
Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi, Amigurumi Girl with Sunflowers Free Crochet Pattern Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;
MATERIALS AND TOOLS:
Crochet hook 1.75 mm (I use Tulip Etimo Rose).
Yarn Gazzal Baby cotton 50g/165m; 60% cotton, 40% acrylic:
№3469
(Bleached Apricot)
20g
№3432
(Brilliant White)
20g
№3431
(Federal Blue)
20g
№3417
(Lemon Chrome)
15g
№3448
(Green Tea)
15g
№3436
(Chocolate Brown)
10g
Yarn YarnArt Alpine Alpaca 150g/120m; 30% alpaca; 10% wool;
60% acrylic:
№431
(brown)
30g
- Toy filler (hollofiber or synthetic fur).
- Scissors, tailor’s pins, a long needle with a wide eye, a sewing
- needle.
- Handicrafts pliers.
- Universal glue “Moment Crystal” for the flower.
- Paper white medical tape.
- Safety eyes 8 mm.
- Black muslin threads to embroider the eyelids.
- Two white decorative buttons.
- Brown muslin threads to embroider the mouth.
- Copper or aluminum wire, d-1.5 mm, (5-6 cm) for the flower.
- Copper single-core wire in insulation, d-1.5 mm, (70cm) for the
- frame.
- Thick plastic for shoe insoles.
- Hairbrush.
- Artistic dry pastel to tone the face.
Abbreviations:
ar – amigurumi ring.
ch – chain.
sc – single crochet.
dec – decrease (invisible, see
photo).
inc – increase.
inc3 – 3 single crochet in one
stitch
sc3tog – single crochet three
together (invisible decrease).
3-dc-bobble-stitch.
dc – double crochet.
tr – treble crochet
dtr – double treble crochet
stitch
sl st – slip stitch.
BLO – work in back loop only.
FLO – work in front loop only.
Shift stitches – additional
stitches (only where they are
indicated).
(…)*n -repeat n times what is
in parentheses.
(…) -the number of stitches in
one row is indicated in
parentheses.
ch3p – chain 3 picot.
ARMS (MAKE2):
Fill in the detail at the end of the work.
Work with body-colored yarn: 3 ch, work in a spiral from the
second stitch from the hook:
- inc, inc in the last stitch of chain,
2 inc on the other side of the chain (8)
Put a marker.
2. 8 sc (8)
3. inc, 7 sc (9)
4. 3-dc-bobble-stitch, 8 sc (9)
5. 9 sc (9)
Do not fill.
Work with white yarn. Cut the body-colored thread and hide it.
6. FLO, 9 inc3 (27)
7-9. (3 rows) 27 sc (27)
10. (dec, 1 sc)*9 (18)
11-12. (2 rows) 18 sc (18)
13. (dec, 4 sc)*3 (15)
14-21. (8 rows) 15 sc (15)
Fasten the thread, cut and hide.
Use a piece of yellow yarn to embroider the bottom of the sleeve with backstitch.
Prepare two pieces of wire ~13 cm long. Bend one end and
insert the wire into the arms.
Fill tightly the first 5-7 rows of the sleeve.
LEGS (MAKE 2):
I crochet two legs at the same time.
Work with white yarn: 7 ch, work in a spiral from the second stitch
from the hook:
- inc, 4 sc, 3 sc in the last stitch of the chain, 4 sc on other side of the
chain, inc (15)
Put a marker (on the heel).
- 1 sc, inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, inc, 1 sc (20)
- 1 sc, inc, 5 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, inc, 1 sc (26)
Cut the white thread, leave the end of 90 cm, later we will crochet
with it on the edge of the sole.
NOTE!
To make the sole strong, make it from thick plastic.
Then glue them to the soles on the inside.
Trace the sole on the plastic, cut it a few millimeters smaller so that
the half-loops of the last row of the sole extend beyond the edges
of the plastic blank. Make the second one in the same way, glue
them to the soles a little bit later. See photo.
Attach the yellow yarn and work alternately with yellow and white
thread, making an invisible transition from one color to another
without breaking the thread (changing the thread inside the leg).
- BLO, yellow – 8 sc, white – 10 sc, yellow – 8 sc (26)
- Yellow – 8 sc, white – 10 sc, yellow – 8 sc (26)
NOTE!
Glue the plastic blanks to the inside of the soles. Cut
the pieces of yarn inside the leg for convenience!
- Yellow – 8 sc, white – 5 dec, yellow – 8 sc (21)
- Yellow – 8 sc, white – 1 sc, 1 sc3tog, 1 sc, yellow – 8 sc (19)
Take the yellow thread outside and leave a length of 80 cm to work
then on the upper part of the sneakers.
With a piece of white yarn from the sole that was left earlier – FLO
of 3rd row – 26 sc. Cut the thread, fasten and hide.
See photo.
Switch to body-colored yarn (yellow thread is on the outer side).
- BLO, 8 sc, dec, 9 sc (18)
- 18 sc (18)
Work on the edge of the sneakers with the piece of yellow yarn you
left:
19 sc with FLO of 7th row.
NOTE! At this stage, prepare the wire frame.
Measure and cut two pieces of wire ~19cm long.
Bend one edge in the form of a loop, adjusting it to the size of the
sole, see the photo.
Insert the wire frames into the
legs and fill tightly.
Next, fill tightly every 3-4 rows.
10-17 (8 rows) 18 sc (18).
Work with white yarn:
- 18 sc (18)
NOTE! Next, in order for the legs to be slightly turned with
the feet towards each other, you need to make additional stitches
separately for the left and right legs (see photo). My shift stitches
count may differ from yours due to different crochet densities!
For the right leg: 7 sc – shift stitches (cut the thread and hide it
inside the leg, but leave the loop).
For the left leg: 12 sc – shift stitches (do not cut the thread, work with
it).
From the left leg – 5 ch and connect it with the right leg.
NOTE!
To connect the legs, insert the hook with the loop
from the left leg into the loop of the right leg and insert the hook
into the next loop of the right leg, pull out the new loop and pull
through all 3 loops on the hook. This is the first sc of the 19th row.
- 18 sc on the right leg, 5 sc on the chain, 18 sc on the left leg, 5 sc
on the other side of the chain (46)
20-24. (5 rows) 46 sc (46)
NOTE!
At this stage, decorate the sneakers with embroidery
with a thin brown thread (I made long stitches with a thin needle).
See photo.
Twist the wires from the legs together,
as shown in the photo.
25-28. (4 rows) 46 sc (46)
Fill tightly, especially where
the legs join the body.
21 sc – shift stitches, so that
the marker for the beginning of the row is on the back.
29-31. (3 rows) 46 sc (46)
- (dec, 21 sc)*2 (44)
- 44 sc (44)
- 10 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 10 sc (42)
- (dec, 5 sc)*6 (36)
Fill the body tightly.Attach arms in the next row.
NOTE!
Be careful, because the
number of stitches I calculated may
differ from your calculations due to
different density of crocheting. Make
sure that the arms are at the sides of
the body and the thumbs are directed
forward. You can mark with pins.
- 5 sc on the body, 7 sc together with the stitches of the left arm
(insert the hook from the wrong side of the arm), 11 sc on the body, 7
sc together with the stitches of sc on the body, 6 sc on the body (36) - 5 sc on the body, 8 sc on the left arm, 11 sc on the body, 8 sc on
the right arm, 6 sc on the body (38)
NOTE!
At this stage, bend the wires of the arms as shown in
the photo. The height of the wires from the shoulder line should be
3 cm, cut off the excess. Wrap the resulting bundle of wires with a
paper tape.
- (dec, 17 sc)*2 (36)
- (dec, 4 sc)*6 (30)
- 30 sc (30)
- (dec, 3 sc)*6 (24)
Work with body-color yarn. Do not cut
the white thread, leave it to make the
neck lace a little bit later. - 24 sc BLO (24)
Fill the part tightly, make sure that the
filler does not get into the middle of the
sleeves. - 24 sc (24)
- (dec, 2 sc)*6 (18)
45-46. (2 rows) 18 sc (18) - (dec, 1 sc)*6 (12)
48-51. (4 rows) 12 sc (12) - (dec)*6 (6)
Pull the hole, cut and hide the thread.
With white yarn, crochet along the neck with FLO of the 41st row:
(ch, 3 dc in the next stitch, ch, sl st in the next stitch)*12.
Cut the thread and hide it.
For embroidery, use pieces of
yellow, green and brown yarn. The
ornament is 4 sc in height and 11 sc
in width. The ornament must be
placed on the visible part of the
sleeve. Work with backstitch. See
photo.
SUNDRESS
SKIRT:
Work with blue yarn. Before starting, leave a 180 cm piece of thread
to crochet on the upper part of the sundress later.
50 ch. Connect in a circle with sl st. Make sure that the chain does
not twist.
50 sc (50)
(inc, 9 sc)*5 (55)
55 sc (55)
5 sc, inc (10 sc, inc)*4, 5 sc (60)
60 sc (60)
(inc, 11 sc)*5 (65)
65 sc (65)
6 sc, inc (12 sc, inc)*4, 6 sc (70)
9-10. (2 rows) 70 sc (70)
(inc, 13 sc)*5 (75)
12-13. (2 rows) (75)
7 sc, inc (14 sc, inc)*4, 7 sc (80)
80 sc (80)
80 sc FLO, sl st.
Fasten the thread, cut and hide.
With white yarn, make the lace along
the bottom of the sundress with
BLO of the 15th row.
Start the row from the back.
(ch, skip one stitch, in the next stitch – 3 dc,
ch, skip one stitch, in the next stitch – sl st)*20
Fasten the thread, cut and hide.
THE UPPER PART OF THE SUNDRESS^:
Select 10 stitches from the front in the middle of the sundress,
attach the thread, work with turning rows without turning ch, 10 sc
(4 rows).
Fasten the thread, cut and hide.
Work on the top of the sundress with sc with a piece of thread that
was left earlier (2 sc in the corners of the upper part). Cut the
thread and hide it.
See photo.
2 PARTS FOR IMITATION OF FRONT
HIDDEN POCKETS:
Work with blue yarn, 11 ch.
From the second stitch from the hook –
10 sc. Cut the thread. Hide the ends
after sewing the parts to the sundress
BACK POCKETS (MAKE 2):
Work with blue yarn, 5 ch.
From the second stitch from the hook
work with turning rows without turning
chain:
- 3 sc, 6 sc in the last stitch, 3 sc (12)
- 3 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 3 sc (14)
- 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc (16)
Cut the thread and hide it.
STRAPS (MAKE 2):
Work with blue yarn, 22 ch.
From the third stitch from the hook – 20 dc.
Leave a piece for sewing the strap to the
sundress.
SUNDRESS DESIGN:
Put the sundress skirt on the doll’s body.
Mark the location and fastening of the
straps with pins.
Sew the straps to the sundress with a thin
blue thread.
Sew on white decorative buttons.
Mark the locations of the back and front pockets with pins.
Sew the details to the sundress with a thin blue thread.
HEAD:
Work with body-colored yarn in a spiral:
6 sc in ar (6)
(inc)*6 (12)
Put a marker.
(inc, 1 sc)*6 (18)
(inc, 2 sc)*6 (24)
(inc, 3 sc)*6 (30).
(inc, 4 sc)*6 (36)
(inc, 5 sc)*6 (42)
(inc, 6 sc)*6 (48)
(inc, 7 sc)*6 (54)
(inc, 8 sc)*6 (60)
(inc, 9 sc)*6 (66)
12-20. (9 rows) 66 sc (66)
20 sc, (dec, 2 sc)2, dec, 6 sc, (dec, 2 sc)2, dec, 20 sc (60)
60 sc (60)
In the next row, using ch, make two holes for eyes.
25 sc, 1 ch, skip one stitch, 8 sc, 1 ch, skip one stitch, 25 sc (60)
60 sc (60)
20 sc, (inc, 2 sc)2, inc, 6 sc, (inc, 2 sc)2, inc, 20 sc (66)
20 sc, (inc, 3 sc)2, inc, 8 sc, (inc, 3 sc)2, inc, 20 sc (72)
27-28. (2 rows) 72 sc (72)
Insert and fasten the eyes in the holes of the 23rd row.
5 sc, (dec, 10 sc)*5, dec, 5 sc (66)
(dec, 9 sc)*6 (60)
4 sc (dec, 8 sc)*5, dec, 4 sc (54)
(dec, 7 sc)*6 (48)
3 sc, (dec, 6 sc)*5, dec, 3 sc (42)
(dec, 5 sc)*6 (36)
Fill with filler.
2 sc, (dec, 4 sc)*5, dec, 2 sc (30)
(dec, 3 sc)*6 (24)
Fill the head tightly to the end, especially in the area of the cheeks!
24 sc BLO (24)
38-41. (4 rows) 24 sc (24)
Cut and hide the thread.
Put these four rows of 24 sc inside the head (see photo).
NOTE! Pay attention to symmetry when embroidering details,
see photo.
Make a tightening for the eyes.
To do this, insert a long needle with body-colored yarn (or other
strong yarn) from the inside of the neck at point 1 and bring it out
near the eye at point 2, insert at point 3 and bring it out at point 4 in
one stitch from point 1 (see photo).
Make the same for the second eye.
Pull hard enough so that the threads that are above the eye can
“hide” behind the eyes and the forms for both eyes are the same.
Make 2-3 strong knots and hide the threads inside the head.
Repeat the tightening for both eyes, but this time the threadshould be “hidden” behind the eyes in the lower part of the eye.
It is important to do exactly two pulls to get the
desired result.
NOTE!
Crochet the ears on the head (make 2), not separate parts.
To do this, mark the location of the ears with pins (the 8th sc from
the eyes, one row below the eyes). See photo.
The hook should be directed from the
eye!
Insert the hook for the 8th sc and work
into it (see photo):
- 1 ch, 4 tr , 1 ch, sl st.
Pull the pieces of yarn from the ears,
cut them and hide.
Embroider a nose with body-colored yarn – a width of 2 sc, one row
below the eyes: 5 horizontal stitches and wrap them with 6-7
vertical stitches.
Embroider the whites of the eyes with white yarn, see photo.
Embroider the eyelids with moulin thread in the same number of
threads as in the new strand.
Embroider the eyebrows with brown yarn (two stitches).
Embroider the mouth with a brown
thread of moulin in one fold, see
photo.
HAIR:
From yarn Alpina Alpaca YarnArt No. 431, cut ~44 strands 30 cm
long. The number of strands may be different for you
Using pins and contrasting thread, make
a mark in the center of the head to
indicate an even parting.
Put the first pin in the center of the
head, 7 rows above the eyebrows.
Put the second pin on the back of the
head in the center, 6 rows above the
neck. With a contrasting thread, connect
these two pins, noting an even parting to
attach the strands of hair. (see photo).
Along the line of the thread, put pins through one row, then remove
the marker thread.
Put two additional pins, one behind each ear.The pins should be
two rows below the ear and 3 sc toward the back of the head from
the ears. (see photo).
In these places, there will also be strands that you will use later
when braiding.
Using a needle with body-colored yarn, sew one strand of hair at a
time in the places indicated by pins, folding the strand in half. Start
from the front, bringing out the needle at the location of the first
pin. Take a strand of hair at the bend, insert the needle back and
bring it out at the location of the next pin (see photo)
NOTE! Pull the thread tight when sewing strands. Repeat these steps until the last pin, including those behind the ears.
Next, trim the hair. To do this, fix the two ponytails behind the ears
together with the strands near the ears with rubber bands (see
photo)
Cut the excess length of strands in the ponytails, focusing on the
shortest strands. Remove the rubber bands from the ponytails (see
photo).
Brush the hair step by step (see photo). To do this, divide the hair
into several parts (3-4 on each side). Untwist the strands of the first
part and brush from top to bottom. I did this with a normal small
hairbrush, starting from the ends of the strands and going up (see
photo).
NOTE!
During the process quite a lot of yarn fibers will be
brushed out, don’t worry. The process is quite long and requires
patience.
Braid two braids symmetrically, don’t
forget to use the strands behind the
ears. Do it nice and beautiful. (see
photo).
Tone the face with a dry artistic pastel.
Next photos show how to beautifully fix the ends of the braids.
LEAVES AND FLOWERS:
LEAVES-BASE FOR FLOWERS (MAKE 2)
Work in a spiral with green yarn:
- 6 sc in ar (6)
- (inc)*6 (12)
Put a marker.
3-4. (2 rows) 12 sc (12) - (dec)*6 (6)
- FLO (inc)*6 (12)
- (inc, 1 sc)*6 (18)
- (inc, 2 sc)*6 (24)
- (inc, 3 sc)*6 (30)
- (4 ch, 3 Double Treble Crochet cluster in the next stitch, ch3p,
4 ch, 9 sc)*3
Leave a piece of thread to sew to the head
LEAF (MAKE 2)
Work with green yarn:
- 4 ch in ar, 1 dtr, сh3p, 1 dtr, 4 ch, sl st.
Leave a short piece of thread.
FLOWERS (MAKE 7)
Work in a spiral with brown yarn:
- 6 sc in ar (6)
- (inc)*6 (12)
Change to the yellow yarn and make 12 petals (the changing from
one color yarn to another should be invisible):
NOTE! Bring all tips of the threads to the wrong side, later
hide them under the overlay.
- BLO (4 ch, from the second stitch from the hook – 3 sc, sl st in the
next stitch)*12
Next, work with FLO of the brown base: - FLO (3 ch, from the second stitch from the hook – 2 sc, sl st in
FLO of the next stitch of the brown base)*12.
Fasten the thread, cut and hide.
See photo.
With light brown yarn in one
fold, embroider around the
circle of the central part of the
flower with backstitch (see
photo).
Using green yarn in one fold, embroider
the center of the flower with a “French
knot” stitch or any other volumetric
stitch (see photo).
THE BACK PART OF THE FLOWER (MAKE 7):
Work in a spiral with green yarn:
- 6 sc in ar (6)
- (inc)*6 (12)
Leave a piece of yarn (~40 cm) for
further sewing the flower to the leavesbase.
With a sewing thread in the tone of the
green yarn, sew the details to the
flower, covering all tips on the wrong
side (see photo).
SEWING THE FLOWERS TO THE LEAVES-BASE:
Using the piece of thread left on the back part of the flower, sew
the flowers one by one to the leaves-base.
SUNFLOWER DESIGN:
Prepare a piece of copper or aluminum wire ~5 cm long.
In the back part of the flower, bring the remaining piece of
thread to the middle of the part from the wrong side to the
front.
Insert one end of the wire into the middle
of the back part of the flower
from front to back.
Form the ring with pliers and bend it so
that the ring fits the part. Attach the
detail with the wire to the flower, as
shown in the photo, and sew it with
a thin thread in the tone of the detail.
Wrap the wire approximately to the middle with a piece of
thread. Attach a leaf to the wire and continue wrapping the
wire along its entire length on top of the pieces of the leaf. See
photo.
Bend the end of the wire, apply glue and wrap it over so that
the wire is not visible (see photo).
HEADBAND:
Work with green yarn with turning rows:
- 27 ch (27)
- From the third stitch from the hook – 25 dc (25)
Leave a piece of yarn (~40 cm) to sew to the head.
DESIGN OF FLOWERS ON THE HEAD:
Fix the headband on the head in places of sewing with pins.
Sew to the head (I make a few strong stitches with a long needle
through the head).
Fix the flowers on the head symmetrically to each other.
Sew the flowers in the same way (3-4 strong stitches).
FIX THE HEAD TO THE NECK:
HE HEAD TO THE NECK
Work with a long needle with body-colored yarn. Insert the needle
in the area of the crown of the head in the center (on the parting
line) and bring it out in the neck hole. Next, insert the needle into
the neck and insert it again into the neck hole, bring it out in the
area of the crown, slightly moving away from the place where the
needle was first inserted. Leave two ends of the thread, pull them,
making sure that the head is tightly held on the neck, tie the pieces
into two or three strong knots and hide the ends.
If the doll is not for active games, you may not fix the
head, it is enough to simply insert the neck into the hole in the head.
NOTE!
