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Amigurumi Octopus Free Crochet Pattern

Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you.
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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Octopus Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

Pattern abbreviations
The following abbreviations have been used in this book:
ch = chain stitch
dc = double crochet
dec = single crochet decrease
hdc = half double crochet
hdc2tog = half double crochet decrease 2 stitches into 1
inc = single crochet increase
inv dec = invisible decrease
inv sc3tog = put hook through front loops of first 2 stitches and
under both loops of third stitch, pull 1 loop through, complete as sc.
sc = single crochet
sc3tog = single crochet decrease 3 stitches into 1
slst = slip stitch
st(s) = stitches
tr = treble crochet
Crochet terminology
The patterns are all written using US crochet terms. If you are used
to working with UK terms, please note the following differences in
stitch names:

The wonderful thing about amigurumi is that they can be made in any
yarn! For the projects in this book, I have used yarn from Paintbox
Yarns and Rico Designs, with the odd extra thrown in. At the start of
each project you will find a list of the exact yarn used and the number
of balls each sample took.
A thicker yarn will produce a bigger toy than the sample and will
require more yarn. If your chosen yarn is thinner than the sample the
result will be dinkier. When substituting yarns, I always compare the
length and weight of the yarn ball to the one listed in the pattern – if in
doubt it’s best to have an extra ball or you might find yourself playing
a game of yarn chicken!
While the samples are made in smooth yarns with texture added in
other ways, there are many other fibres to explore – try working with
chenille or faux fur as well as plain cotton to get a different result.
Finding the right hook is key to a successful amigurumi project.
Luckily there are many options to try out and depending on how you
hold it in your hand some will be more comfortable than others. I hold
my hook like a pen and always use Clover Soft Touch hooks.
Tension (gauge)
To find out if your hook size is right for your yarn try making a small
tension swatch (see Tension swatch). For toys, the aim is to create a
dense, but not stiff, fabric with no gaps between stitches for stuffing
to show through. If the fabric feels too loose, try switching to a
smaller hook. If it’s too stiff and getting the hook into the next stitch is
a struggle, try going up to the next hook size.
Tension swatch
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Fasten off.
I recommend the following hook sizes in order to achieve the same
size as the samples:
DK cotton: 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Worsted wool: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
4-ply cotton held double: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
DK cotton held together with mohair: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Remember, these are just guidelines. The main aim is for you to
produce a crochet fabric that you will enjoy working with!
Other tools and materials
As well as the yarn and hook you will also need the following items.
Plain black eyes are used for most of the projects in this book, with a
size chosen that matches the proportion of each toy. But there are
many more unusual, sparkly or realistic toy eyes available online.
Embroidered eyes and sewn-on beads also work well; each element
you choose will add unique personality to your project. However, if
you are giving the toy to a small child, it’s best to stick to safety eyes
or embroidery.
To give the toys their shape you will need to fill them with toy stuffing.
High-loft polyester stuffing is lightweight and versatile; you will find it
in your local haberdashery or online. If you prefer sticking to natural
fibres, pure wool or recycled cotton stuffing is a good alternative.
For some of the flatter details, a stabilizing insert will help the toy to
keep its shape. You can use thick wadding, felt or fabric stabilizer for
this – the key is to look for something flexible that bounces back into
shape when released.
To help the animals hold their poses you can reinforce some parts
with wire or craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems). A coated wire, such
as 3mm (28-gauge) garden wire, works well for adding a lot of
support. Doubling up pipe cleaners adds just enough support to gently
adjust the shape.
You will need to have some sewing pins handy when sewing together
the different elements of each creature. When joining larger pieces
together, sewing clips can work better than pins. Sewing clips can be
found in haberdashery shops.
For sewing creature parts together, choose a blunt-tipped tapestry
needle with a wide eye, so that the yarn is easy to draw through it.
The blunt tip will stop the yarn from splitting and protect the fingertips
from any prickles!
Marking the beginning of a round with a stitch marker can be very
helpful for keeping on track. You can use a removable stitch marker,
a safety pin, a bit of contrasting colour yarn or the yarn tail from the
start of the project.
An ordinary pet hairbrush is the perfect tool for making your crochet
creatures extra fluffy!

What has no bones, blue blood, three hearts and eight arms?
An octopus, of course! A fluid, moving tangle of tentacles
with many, many suckers, this beautiful animal is hard to wrap
one’s head around. Absent are the familiar markers of a welldefined head and body – we are looking at something else
entirely. Masters of camouflage, octopuses can blend into
any terrain. These clever predators can also solve complex
puzzles, regrow a lost arm, squeeze through the tiniest of
gaps and disappear in a puff of inky ‘smoke’ too – they are
better escape artists than Houdini!

50cm (20in) long
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% cotton) 125m (137yds) per 50g
(1¾oz) ball:
Lilac: 3 x 50g (1¾oz) balls in Tea Rose (shade 443)
Pale Purple: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Dusty Rose (shade 442)
Dark Purple: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Pansy Purple (shade 448)
3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Other tools and materials
Pair 30mm clear safety eyes
Craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems) or wire (optional)
Removable stitch markers
Toy stuffing
Sewing pins
Tapestry needle
The octopus is a master of
disguise. It can change the colour,
and even texture, of its skin to
blend in with its surroundings.
Tension (gauge)
Tension is not critical for this project, but if you want to match the
pattern shown, make a small circular swatch using the chosen yarn
and hook (see Tools and materials: Tension swatch for the swatch
When made in DK weight cotton with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
the swatch should measure 3.5cm (1⅜in) across.
Project notes
The body is worked in one piece,
from the back down to the
tentacles. The sucker caps on the
tentacles are worked as a
separate piece, and the whole
underside is sewn to the body.
Using large, clear eyes over a
colourful yarn creates a beautiful
eye colour. To finish, the back of
the body is decorated with
embroidery in different light and
dark coordinating colours.
Special stitches
Popcorn: Ch3, 7dc in the 3rd ch from the hook, remove the hook and
place it through the top of the beg 3-ch from the back of the work to
the front, grab the last loop and pull it through the ch on the hook (1
popcorn made). Usually the hook is placed from the front to the back,
but working it the opposite way gives a nice open look to the cluster.
Half-popcorn: Ch2, 5hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook, remove the
hook and place it through the top of the beg 2-ch from the back of the
work to the front, grab the last loop and pull it through the ch on the
hook (1 half-popcorn made).
Picot: Ch3, slst in 1st ch.
Make 2, start in Pale Purple yarn.
Ch6, join with a slst to make a ring. [6]
Round 1: Inc in each ch. [12]
Round 2: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 3: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Change to Dark Purple, fasten off Pale Purple.
Rounds 4–6: Sc in all 24 sts. [3 rounds]
Change to Lilac, fasten off Dark Purple.
Round 7: (inc in next st, 1dc) 12 times. [36]
Rounds 8–9: Sc in all 36 sts. [2 rounds]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (photo 1)

Place the clear eye through the starting ring, but do not fasten yet.
Set aside. (photo 2)

Make 1 in Lilac yarn.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc 6 times. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Round 5: (3sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [30]
Round 6: (4sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [36]
Round 7: (5sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [42]
Round 8: (6sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [48]
Round 9: (7sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [54]
Round 10: (8sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [60]
Round 11: (9sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [66]
Round 12: (10sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [72]
Round 13: (11sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [78]
Round 14: (12sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [84]
Round 15: (13sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [90]
Rounds 16–30: Sc in all 90 sts. [15 rounds] (photo 3)

The next section has decreases along one side of the body; each
round is decreased by 3 stitches until there are 42 stitches in total.
Round 31: 30sc, (inv dec, 18sc) 3 times. [87]
Round 32: 30sc, (inv dec, 17sc) 3 times. [84]
Round 33: 30sc, (inv dec, 16sc) 3 times. [81]
Round 34: 30sc, (inv dec, 15sc) 3 times. [78]
Round 35: 30sc, (inv dec, 14sc) 3 times. [75]
Round 36: 30sc, (inv dec, 13sc) 3 times. [72]
Round 37: 30sc, (inv dec, 12sc) 3 times. [69]
Round 38: 30sc, (inv dec, 11sc) 3 times. [66]
Round 39: 30sc, (inv dec, 10sc) 3 times. [63]
Round 40: 30sc, (inv dec, 9sc) 3 times. [60]
Round 41: 30sc, (inv dec, 8sc) 3 times. [57]
Round 42: 30sc, (inv dec, 7sc) 3 times. [54]
Round 43: 30sc, (inv dec, 6sc) 3 times. [51]
Round 44: 30sc, (inv dec, 5sc) 3 times. [48]
Round 45: 30sc, (inv dec, 4sc) 3 times. [45]
Round 46: 30sc, (inv dec, 3sc) 3 times. [42] (photo 4)

Rounds 47–51: Sc in all 42 sts. [5 rounds]
In the next round, two holes are added for eye placement. If you
prefer to skip this step, crochet in the same way as for the previous
Round 52: 2sc, ch1, skip next st, 20sc, ch1, skip next st, 18sc. [42]
(photo 5)

Round 53: 2sc, 1sc over the ch, 20sc, 1sc over the ch, 18sc. [42]
Rounds 54–58: Sc in all 42 sts. [5 rounds]
Round 59: 30sc, (3sc, inc in next st) 3 times. [45]
Round 60: 30sc, (4sc, inc in next st) 3 times. [48]
Increases for the tentacles begin in the next round.
Round 61: (2sc, inc in next st, 3sc) 8 times. [56]
Round 62: (3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc) 8 times. [72]
Round 63: (4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc) 8 times. [88] (photo 6)

Round 64: (inv dec, 3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc, inv dec) 8 times. [88]
Round 65: (5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc) 8 times. [104]
Round 66: (inv dec, 4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc, inv dec) 8 times. [104]
Round 67: (6sc, 3sc in next st, 6sc) 8 times. [120] (photo 7)

Add safety eyes to the gaps from Round 52, secure with fasteners.
(photos 8 and 9)

Round 68: (inv dec, 5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc, inv dec) 8 times. [120]
Round 69: (7sc, 3sc in next st, 7sc) 8 times. [136]
Round 70: (inv dec, 6sc, 3sc in next st, 6sc, inv dec) 8 times. [136]
In the next round, the gaps for 8 tentacles are created.
Round 71: 7sc, place stitch marker in last worked st, 4sc, (ch1, skip
next 12 sts, 5sc) 7 times, ch1, skip next 6sts. [54] (photo 10)

Round 72: Skip 6 sts to get to marked st (5sc, 1sc over the chain) 8
times. [48] (photo 11) Slst in next st, fasten off. We will return to this
round and close the shape after making the tentacles.

Using a tapestry needle, sew the outer edge of the eyes to the body.
(photo 12)

Add stuffing to the body up to the level of the safety eyes.
Make 8 in Lilac yarn.
Join in yarn just before the first stitch of any 12-stitch gap created in
Round 69 of the body.
Round 1: 12sc, 3sc across the gap. [15] (photo 13)

Rounds 2–16: Sc in all 15 sts. [15 rounds]
Round 17: (inv dec, 3sc) 3 times. [12]
Rounds 18–32: Sc in all 12 sts [15 rounds]
Round 33: (inv dec, 2sc) 3 times. [9]
Rounds 34–48: Sc in all 9 sts. [15 rounds]
Round 49: (inv dec, 1sc) 3 times [6]
Rounds 50–64: Sc in all 6 sts. [15 rounds]
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Thread tail through front loops with a
tapestry needle and pull tight to close. (photo 14)

Insert some wire or craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems) into each
tentacle at this point if you choose to and stuff them lightly. If using
pipe cleaners, twist two together first for extra strength. Add stuffing
to the body. (photo 15

Make 1 in Lilac yarn.
Join yarn to any stitch from Round 70 of the body.
Round 1: (6sc, inv dec) 6 times. [42]
Round 2: (4sc, inv dec) 7 times. [35]
Round 3: (3sc, inv dec) 7 times. [28]
Round 4: (2sc, inv dec) 7 times. [21]
Top up the body stuffing, filling out the shape.
Round 5: (1sc, inv dec) 7 times. [14]
Round 6: Inv dec 7 times. [7]
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Thread tail through front loops with a
tapestry needle and pull tight to close. (photo 16)

Underside decoration
Make in Pale Purple yarn.
Round 1: 8sc in a magic ring. [8]
Round 2: Inc in all 8 sts. [16]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 8 times. [24]
Round 4: (1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) 8 times. [40]
Round 5: (inv dec, 3sc in next st, inv dec) 8 times. [40]
Round 6: (2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc) 8 times. [56]
Round 7: (inv dec, 1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc, inv dec) 8 times. [56]
Round 8: (3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc) 8 times. [72] (photo 17)

The next round is a bit tricky: long strings of popcorn and picot
stitches are added to make up the undersides of the tentacles. They
will give a neat sucker-like appearance once pressed. Don’t worry if
your chain of popcorns twists, it will be straightened when it’s slipstitched back down from the tentacle tips.
Tentacle round: 5sc, popcorn, (photo 18) (ch2, popcorn) 9 times,
(ch2, half-popcorn) 9 times, (ch4, slst in 2nd ch from hook) 3 times,
this is the tip of the tentacle. (photo 19) Now work back down to the
middle: slst in next 5ch, (ch1, 2slst between the half-popcorns) 9
times, (ch2, 2slst between the popcorns) 9 times, (photos 20–22)
ch2, slst into the very first ch at the start of the tentacle, 4sc along
the main round. (photos 23 and 24

Repeat Tentacle round 7 more times, creating 8 tentacle
undersides. [72 + 8 tentacles, each with 10 popcorns, 9 halfpopcorns and 3 picots]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Press your finger into each
of the popcorns to open out the suckers. (photo 25)

Turn the octopus upside down and pin the underside to the bottom of
the body, matching the positions of the tentacles. (photo 26)

Carefully start stitching the two together – whip stitch will work well
(see Assembly techniques). To start, go along the central crochet
base, then up one side of a tentacle. You can do this by eye, or you
could secure the tentacles with removable stitch markers. Don’t worry
if something is uneven, it will have a natural look. Secure the back of
the popcorns to the main tentacle, alternating their positions from left
to right. Try working up to the tip of the tentacle along the right-hand
side, catching every other popcorn, then working back down to the
body on the left-hand side catching the other popcorns. (photos 27–

Final details
Once the underside is attached embroider some spots to the top of
the body, alternating colours at random.(photos 30 and 31)


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