Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers
Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you. As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. master crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi rabbit, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi unicorn , amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…

We can say that Christmas time is approaching now, so I wanted to present you the santa claus amigurumi toy. You can prepare wonderful crochet handmade amigurumi dolls for your children at Christmas time. To create a step by step crochet amigurumi pattern, you must follow the instructions completely.

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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Harry Potter Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

MATERIALS:

1.Yarn:

-YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of skin color (number 07) – less than one skein;
-YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of graphite color (number 28) – small amount (for boots and pants);
-Gazzal Baby Cotton yarn (50g/165m) of dark grey color (number 3450) – half of a skein (for trousers and a sword handle);
-Alize Cotton Gold yarn (100g/330m) of dark brown color (number 26) – half of a skein (for hair);
-YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of white color (number 01) – half of a skein (for shirt);
-YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of maroon color (number 66) – small amount (for necktie and scarf);
-YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of grey color (number 46) – less than half of a skein (for sweater);
-YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of golden color (number 84) – small amount (for scarf and sweater details);
-Alize Cotton Gold yarn (100g/330m) of black color (number 60)-1 skein (for cloak and sock);

-Alize Cotton Gold yarn (100g/330m) of beige color (number 499) – small amount (for scar) – can be substituted with any beige color you want;
-Alize Cotton Gold yarn (100g/330m) of brown color (number 493) – half of a skein (for hat)
-Pekhorka Cannabis (50g/280m) of light grey color (number 059) small amount (for sword blade);
-Gazzal Baby Cotton yarn (50g/165m) of red color (number 3439) – small amount (for sword details) – you can use any yarn of red color you want.

2. 10 mm safety eyes.
3. Toy stuffing (hollow fiber).
4. 2 mm crochet hook Clover (or 1.75 mm of any other brand).
5. 1.2 mm copper wire for frame.
6. 1 mm aluminium wire of black color for glasses.
7. Needle, scissors, pins.
8. Stitch marker.
9. Masking tape or adhesive tape for wire frame.
10. Thick cardboard or plastic sheet for insoles.
11. 10 mm buttons for sweater of any color – 3 pc, and one 10 mm
12. button of black color for trousers.
13. Hard pastels for painting.

NOTES:

-Pay attention that in case of using materials other than listed, your toy size will differ from mine.

-Also the toy size depends largely on the technique you crochet single crochet stitches (V-shaped sc, Xshaped sc, semi-X shaped sc). I give the information about differences between these methods in the next page.

-My stitches have semi-X shape. If you use the technique which creates “V shaped” stitches, then your doll would probably be bigger.

V AND X SHAPED STITCHES:

Single crochet stitches can have a shape of “V” or “X”. The shape our stitches get depends on the way we grab the working thread when crocheting.

«V-shape (Yarn over technique)»: This way is counted as a classic one. In this case we insert the hook into the stitch
(photo 1) and you place your hook under the yarn (photo 2). And pull the yarn over the hook from back to front (photo 3). Then pull the yarn in the same way (photo 4) and finish the stitch.

«X-shape (Yarn under technique)»: In this case we insert the hook into the stitch (photo 5) and place your hook over
the yarn (photo 6). Pull the yarn through (photo 7). Then pull the yarn one more time in the same way (photo 8) and finish the stitch.

NOTES:

-The way you crochet your stitches play an important role. My stitches have a semi-X shape.

-When you work in “yarn over technique”, your crochet pattern becomes more smooth, and the
fabric will be more stretchy.

-When you do “yarn under”, the fabric becomes more relief and dense because of twisting the loops.

My stitches have a “semi-X” shape. I start to crochet a stitch like in the yarn under technique (photo
6), then pull the thread and grab the yarn for the second time like in yarn over technique (photo 4).

NOTES:

Difficulty level is upper intermediate.

This pattern doesn’t include any crochet lessons. It’s supposed that you know how to crochet basic stitches.

ABBREVIATIONS:

MR – magic ring
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
dec – decrease
inc – increase
sl st – slip stitch
(..)*n – repeat the combination in parentheses n times
(x) – at the end of every round I write a total number of stitches in parentheses In this pattern we use US terminology.

NOTES:

-The toy pieces are crocheted in a spiral without making a turning chain (until otherwise stated).

-For working at this toy I use invisible decreases: I insert the crochet hook into the front loop of the first stitch, don’t pull the thread and at once insert the hook into both loops of the second stitch, pull the thread through all stitches on the hook.

ABOUT LEGS;

Want to pay your attention to one important moment, which often causes difficulties in understanding.
When we will crochet legs, we will call them as «the left leg» and «the right leg». You should understand that along with this we are oriented towards our doll. The left leg is the one that is located on the left side towards the doll.
But if we look to the doll’s face, it is located on the right side towards you. Analogically with the right leg. The right leg is the one that is located on the right side towards the doll. If we look to the doll’s face, it is located on the left side
towards you. Hope this clarification helps you not to get confused when crocheting the legs.

ARMS:

Make two identical pieces. The arms are crocheted separately and then joined as we crochet the body.
Don’t stuff. Crochet with the yarn of skin color in spiral and use 2 mm crochet hook Clover (or 1.75 mm of any other brand) – US 4.

1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3 round: (inc, 5sc)2 (14) 4-6 rounds: 14sc (14) – 3 rounds 7 round: bobble stitch, consisting of 3 dc, 13sc (14) 8 round: (dec, 5sc)2 (12)
9 round: (dec, 4sc)*2 (10)
10-35 rounds: 10sc (10) – 26 rounds

Fold the arm in half and work several additional sc needed to shift the thumb to the arm side (for the right and for the left arm). Cut the thread and fasten off. Prepare the wire frame for the arms. Cut two pieces of wire using wire cutters. The length of the pieces should equal about 18 cm. Bend one of the wire ends, like in the photo (photo 3), and wrap the wire across the whole length (photo 4).

LEGS:

For legs we will need three colors: graphite color – for boots, black color – for sock and skin color – for legs.

Start crocheting the first leg in graphite color (it will be the left leg for the doll). Make ch9 and crochet from the
second ch from the hook:

1 round: inc, 6sc, 4sc into 1 stitch, along the other side of the chain 6sc, inc (into the first stitch, where we have
already worked the first increase of the round) (20) Place marker.
2 round: 2inc, 6sc, 4inc, 6sc, 2inc (28)
3 round: (1sc, inc)2, 3sc, 3hdc, (1hdc, hdc inc)2, (hdc inc, 1hdc)2, 3hdc, 3sc, (inc, 1sc)2 (36)

Crochet 1-2 sc additionally to shift the stitch marker to the middle of the heel. Place marker. The beginning of the
rounds will be here now.

Take a piece of cardboard or plastic sheet, place the sole on it and draw an outline around. Cut two pieces. We will
use these two insoles to strengthen the legs. Cut about 2 mm from the piece edge, so that we are able to insert
them into the feet.

4 round: crochet into back loops only 36sc (36)
5-6 rounds: into both loops only 36sc (36) – 2 rounds

Check the marker location. It should be located exactly in the middle of the heel. In the next rounds we will make decreases to form the foot. If the marker isn’t located at the necessary point, then the foot won’t get the right shape. Insert the cardboard insole.

7 round: 8sc, (hdc dec, 2hdc)2, 2hdc dec, (2hdc, hdc dec)2, 8sc (30)

NOTE: How to work half double crochet decreases:
Yarn over, insert the crochet hook into front loop of the first stitch, pull the thread, yarn over again, insert the
crochet hook into the front loop of the second stitch, pull the thread, and then pull through all stitches on the hook.

Advice: hold the tight tension when working hdc stitches! Otherwise there will be holes formed between the stitches, and the fiberfill will be seen through them.

Check for the marker location. It should be located exactly in the middle of the back side on the foot!

8 round: 6sc, (1sc, dec)3, (dec, 1sc)3, 6sc (24)
9 round: 6sc, 6dec (work ordinary decreases in this case, not invisible ones, pull the thread tighter), 6sc (18) – when
crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to black (photo 8). Cut the thread of graphite color and fasten off.
10 round: into back loops only 4sc, 5dec, 4sc (13)

Prepare the wire for the legs. Take a copper wire and measure two pieces with the length of about 30 cm (the doll’s size). These pieces will be placed into the feet, will go across the whole length of the legs, across the body and the neck, and a part of them will be located inside of the doll’s head. Bend one end on both pieces forming a loop (about 1 cm) (photo 3). Wrap about 13 cm of each piece with a masking tape or with adhesive tape.

This part will be located inside of the legs till the point where the wire pieces will be joined and twisted inside of
the body. Now bend one of the ends at the angle of 90 degrees (photo 9).

Stuff the leg as you go, adding fiberfill gradually. Insert the wire into the foot and crochet around the frame.

11-12 rounds: into both loops 13sc (13) – 2 rounds
13 round: 12sc, inc (14) – the increase should be worked exactly in the middle of the heel
14 round: 14sc (14)
15 round: 13sc, inc (15) – the increase should be worked exactly in the middle of the heel
16-17 rounds: 15sc (15) – 2 rounds

Crochet several sc additionally to shift the stitch marker to the middle of the back side on the leg. When crocheting the
last stitch change the thread color to skin. Place marker. Cut the thread of black color and fasten off.

18 round: into back loops only 15sc (15)
19 round: 14sc, inc (16) – the increase should be worked exactly in the middle of the back side
20-27 rounds: 16sc (16) – 8 rounds
28 round: 15sc, inc (17) – the increase should be worked exactly in the middle of the back side
29-35 rounds: 17sc (17) – 7 rounds
36 round: inc, 16sc (18) – the increase should be worked exactly in the middle of the back side
37-39 rounds: 18sc (18) – 3 rounds
40 round: inc, 17sc (19) – the increase should be worked exactly in the middle of the back side

Work several sc additionally to finish the work exactly in the middle of the inner side on the leg (till the point where this leg should be joined with the other one). I had to unravel 3 stitches. After this for the first leg fasten off the thread and cut.

Make the second leg (this is the right leg for our doll) according to the same pattern, but you can leave it without a sock: change the color to skin after round 9. Because we remember that the wizard gave it to the elf to set him free.
And in this case we crochet round 18 into both loops of stitches.

When crocheting th last stitch on the second leg change the thread color to graphite and add one
round with 19sc more, if needed (pay attention to the clarification below). I have the color changing point in the middle or the back side on the leg. Cut the thread of skin color and fasten off. Then work several
number of sc additionally to reach to the middle of the right side on the leg and make ch4.

Pay attention! The left edge of the piece is often turns out lower than the right edge. Therefore for the second leg I add one more round. Put both legs near each other and compare their length. If your first leg is longer than the second one, then we need to add one more round for the second leg, like I did. If your legs look equal, then just start joining them.

BODY:

Now we will join the legs and crochet the body.

1 round: insert the hook into the next stitch after the point we have finished on the right leg and crochet 19sc around
it, 4sc along the chain, 9sc around the second leg, place marker (32) – the short round – now the beginning of a new
round will be on the right side of the doll. We should have gotten 46 stitches in the round.

2 round: 46sc (46)
3 round: 9sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 17sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 8sc (50)
4 round: 9sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 17sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 8sc (54)
5-14 rounds: 54sc (54) – 10 rounds
15 round: (dec, 25sc)*2 (52)
16 round: 12sc, dec, 24sc, dec, 12sc (50) – when working the last stitch change the thread color to white – the color
changing point should be necessarily located in the middle of the body side. Cut the thread of graphite color and fasten off.
Stuff the area where we joined the legs tight enough to spread the folds (marked with arrows in photo 16).

Now let’s work with the wireframe. Bend the wire ends from both legs towards each other at the right angles. Then
twist them around each other. Wrap the wire with a masking tape or with adhesive tape.

NOTE: Pay attention to folds, which were formed between the legs after we have joined them. The areas, marked with arrows, should be stuffed firmly enough to make the fabric even.

Crochet in white color.
17 round: into back loops only 50sc (50)
18-24 rounds: 50sc (50) – 7 rounds
25 round: (23sc, dec)2 (48) – decreases in this round should be located exactly in the middle of body sides 26 round: 48sc (48) 27 round: (22sc, dec)2 (46)
28 round: 46sc (46)
29 round: (21sc, dec)2 (44) 30 round: 44sc (44) 31 round: (dec, 20sc)2 (42)

In the next round we will join the arms. Unravel or add a pair of stitches additionally, so that the arms are located
symmetrically on the body sides, according to this pattern: 4sc for the first arm, 16sc – for the back side, 4sc – for the
second arm, 18sc – for the front side of the body. Place marker.

Pay attention, that the thumbs should be facing forward.

32 round: 4sc along the body and the inner side of the first arm, 16sc along the back side, 4sc along the body and the
inner side of the second arm, 18sc along the front side of the body (42) (photo 21)
33 round: 6sc along the outer side of the first arm, 16sc along the back side, 6sc along the outer side of the second arm, 18sc along the front side of the body (46) (photo 22)

Now take the wire we have prepared for arms and insert the pieces into both arms. Bend both wire ends towards each
other and then twist them around the main frame. Wrap the part of the wireframe with a masking tape or adhesive tape (the part which will be located inside of the neck) (photo 23).

34 round: into back loops only 7sc, into both loops 14sc, into back loops only 7sc, into both loops 18sc (46)
35 round: 6sc, dec, 12sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 14sc, dec (42)
36 round: 6sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 12sc, dec (38)
37 round: 2sc, dec, 1sc, dec, (3sc, dec)2, (1sc, dec, 2sc, dec)2, 2sc, dec, 1sc, dec (28)
38 round: 2dec, (1sc, dec)4, (dec, 1sc)4 (18)
Don’t forget to add fiberfill.

Work 2-3 additional sc till the middle of the neck side and when working the last stitch change the thread color to skin.

Cut the white thread, leave a long thread tail (about 1 meter) outside of the body to make a collar.
39 round: into back loops only 18sc (18)
40-43 rounds: 18sc (18) – 4 rounds

Work several sc additionally to finish the work in the middle of the back side. Cut the thread and fasten off.
Now bend the wire ends downwards and wrap them with a masking tape or with adhesive tape.

NECKTIE:

Now we need to embroider the necktie. Use a needle and the threads of maroon and golden colors.
Start embroidering with the thread of maroon color. Pull the thread from the point in the middle of the last white round on the body (under the front loops of round 38). Step 3 rounds down and 2 stitches to the left and insert the needle, making the first stitch (photo 25).

Pull the thread, skipping 4 stitches to the right, then insert the needle, counting 2 rounds down and 2 stitches to the left. Run it under the fabric and pull the needle from the lowest point of the first stitch. We have made two stitches.

Now embroider two stitches more to form a rhombus of the top part of the tie. Then make diagonal stitches, fulfilling the rhombus. I make stitches inserting the needle under the rhombus contours only, without inserting it into the T-shirt
fabric (photo 27). Don’t pull the thread too tight not to distort the tie. Make stitches across the rhombus contours if needed. Then pull the thread out of the lowest point of the rhombus (photo 28).

Now form the rhombus of the lower part of the tie. Make a stitch, counting 5 rounds down and 2 stitches to the left. Pull the thread, skipping 4 stitches to the right and make the second stitch symmetrically to the first one.

Then make two lower stitches in the way that they meet each other in the point four rounds lower. Fill the space inside of the necktie borders with diagonal stitches. Embroider these stitches carefully in the same way as we filled the top
rhombus (photo 29). Embroider several diagonal stitches from the left to the right, then from the right to the left. Make more stitches along the contours if needed to make the necktie edges look even. I made the lower rhombus a bit wider than the top one.

To make golden lines on the necktie take the yarn of golden color and divide the yarn piece into separate threads.
Embroider diagonal stripes with two threads. I embroidered the stripes in the way that some of them are wider and the other ones are thinner. When the tie is ready, weave all the thread tails inside of the toy.

Now make a collar. Pull the thread of white color we have left when crocheting the body from the point on the front side, skipping 1 stitch from the necktie (the round which was crocheted into back loops only).

Crochet the collar, moving clockwise. Make ch3 and crochet into free front loops of stitches: dc into each loop until we
reach to the last stitch near the tie. Don’t crochet dc into the last stitch, make ch and join it with the last stitch with sl st.
There should be one free loop left between two collar sides.

Fasten off the thread, weave in the thread tail inside of the body, cut the excess length.
Return to the sleeves. Attach the white thread near the doll’s underarm, crochet sl st into front loops we have left in round 33.

Fasten off the thread and cut. Weave in the thread tails inside of the neck. Crochet along the sleeve edge on the other
arm in the same way.

HEAD:

Crochet in skin color.
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3 round: (1sc, inc)6 (18)

4 round: (2sc, inc)6 (24)
5 round: (3sc, inc)6 (30)

6 round: (2sc, inc, 2sc)6 (36)
7 round: (5sc, inc)6 (42)

8 round: (3sc, inc, 3sc)6 (48)
9 round: (7sc, inc)6 (54)

10 round: (4sc, inc, 4sc)6 (60)
11 round: (9sc, inc)6 (66)

12-26 rounds: 66sc (66) – 15 rounds Insert the safety eyes between rounds 22 and 23, the distance between the eye stems equals 14 stitches.

27 round: (10sc, dec, 10sc)3 (63)
28 round: 63sc (63)
29 round: (19sc, dec)3 (60) 30 round: 60sc (60) 31 round: (4sc, dec, 4sc)6 (54)
32 round: (7sc, dec)6 (48) Start stuffing the head.

33 round: (3sc, dec, 3sc)6 (42)
34 round: (5sc, dec)6 (36)

35 round: (2sc, dec, 2sc)6 (30)
36 round: (3sc, dec)6 (24)

37 round: (2sc, dec)6 (18)

Cut the thread and fasten off, leaving a long thread tail for sewing. Add fiberfill.

NEEDLE SCULPTING:

For needle sculpting use the thread of the same color which was used for the body. Thread the needle and insert it into the point at the lower part of the head under the chin). This point is located between the last and the second-to-last rounds on the head. Leave a thread tail to tie a knot later. Pull the thread out from point 2 (near the eye) (photo 38).

Then insert the needle into point 3, skipping 2 rounds up from point 2, and run it inside of the piece to the point 4
(near the other eye) (photo 39). Pull the thread. Now insert the needle into point 5 (skipping 2 rounds down) and pull the thread out from point 6 (point 6 is located leaving one stitch to the left from point 1).

Pull thread tails carefully, so that the eyes were slightly pushed into the head fabric. Don’t pull tight, the needle
sculpting should not be very strong.

After this tie the thread tails with 1-2 tigh knots. Thread the needle with tails and weave them inside of the doll’s head.
Our needle sculpting is finished.

FACE DETAILS:

Embroider the nose using the thread of skin color: mark two points between rounds 24 and 25 in the middle of the distance between the eyes, make several horizontal stitches (photo 43). The nose width equals 4 stitches. Don’t hide the thread, we will use it to embroider the eyelids.

Take the white thread and make two stitches near each eye around the outer part, like in photo 45. Then make one more diagonal stitch, from the middle point on the lower edge of the eye and till the top point on the first stitch (photos 46- 47). Fasten off the white thread and weave in inside of the head.

Embroider the upper eyelids with the thread which was left after we finished the nose. the thread near the eye as close as possible in the middle, make a short stitch with the length of 3-4 stitches, insert the needle, leaving 1 stitch from the white part somewhere in the middle of the eye. The eyelid should cover the top edge of the eye slightly and touch the white stitches. Make one more stitch (photo 48).

You can make one more horizontal stitch above the eye using the same thread to imitate the lower lid, the length of the stitch equals – 2-3 stitches.
Embroider the eyebrows using the thread of brown color and a needle, skipping 3 rounds up from the eyes (photo 49). One eyebrow is a horizontal stitch with the length of 4 stitches.
The distance between two eyebrows equals 12 stitches.

EARS:

Now make ears and sew them to the doll’s head. Crochet in skin color.

The right ear:
Form a MR and crochet from it: ch3, now work all the stitches into the magic ring: 2dc, 2hdc, 2sc, pull the ring closed, cut the thread, leaving a tail for sewing.
The left ear:
Form a MR and crochet into it mirrored to the right one: 2sc, 2hdc, 2dc, ch3, join with the MR with sl st, cut the thread,
leaving a tail for sewing.

Fix the ears on the head at the eyes level, counting 5-6 stitched from the eyelids (photo 52). Sew. Weave in the
thread tails inside of the head.

HAIR AND HAIRSTYLE:

Crochet in dark brown color in a spiral into back loops only. At first we need to make a wig, then we will make curls on it.
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3 round: (1sc, inc)6 (18) 4 round: (1sc, inc, 1sc)6 (24)
5 round: (3sc, inc)6 (30) 6 round: (2sc, inc, 2sc)6 (36)
7 round: (5sc, inc)6 (42) 8 round: (3sc, inc, 3sc)6 (48)
9 round: (7sc, inc)6 (54) 10 round: (4sc, inc, 4sc)6 (60)
11 round: (9sc, inc)*6 (66)
12 round: 66sc (66)

13 round: (5sc, inc, 5sc)*6 (72)
14-15 rounds: 72sc (72) – 2 rounds
Don’t cut the thread, we will continue to crochet hair strands on it. Put the wig on the head. It should be located in the way that the top edge is located, skipping 11 rounds from the eyebrows, and the lower edge – leaving 12 rounds from the point where we finished crocheting the head. Fix the wig with pins. The last stitch of the wig should be located exactly in the middle of the back side. Start crocheting hair strands. I crochet them with the wig being put on the head.

Hair strands of the first row

The first hair strand
1 row: make ch8 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 7sc, join with the next stitch on the last round with sl st, then work one sl st more into the next stitch, turn (9)
2 row: from the third stitch from the hook (skip 2 slip stitches) 6sc, ch2, turn (6+ch2)
3 row: from the second stitch from the hook 7sc, join with the next stitch on the last round with sl st (8)

The second, the third, the fourth hair strands
Crochet according to the same pattern as the first one.

The fifth hair strand
1 row: make ch8 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 7sc, join with the next stitch on the last round with sl st, then work one sl st more into the next stitch, turn (9)

2 row: from the third stitch from the hook 6sc, ch2, turn (6+ch2)
3 row: from the second ch from the hook 6sc, inc, join with the next stitch on the last round with sl st (9)

The sixth hair strand (behind the ear)
1 row: make ch8 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 6sc, inc, join with the next stitch of the last round with
sl st, then work one sl st more into the next stitch, turn (10)
2 row: from the third stitch from the hook 8sc, ch2, turn (8+ch2)
3 row: from the second ch from the hook 8sc, inc, join with the next stitch on the last round with sl st (11)

The seventh hair strand (in front of the ear)
1 row: make ch9 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 7sc, inc, skip 1 stitch on the last round, join with the
next stitch with sl st (10)

Cut the thread and fasten off. Now attach the thread near the first hair strand and crochet the second part of the hair
strands on the first round in the opposite direction according to the same pattern (photo 61). After this cut the thread and fasten off. In photo 64 we can see how the row of the hair strands looks in the front.

Hair strands along the hairline
Now we need to highlight the hairline. The hairline should be located slightly to the left from the middle of the wig, be
guided with the nose, the magic ring and the head back. We will crochet hair strands along this line. Take several pins and place them along the straight line (hold the head with the eyes facing towards you). Skip 2 rounds from MR to the left side, all the pins will be located at the distance of 2 rounds from it. Place the first pin, skipping 4 rounds from the wig edge, the second one – skipping 4 rounds down from MR. Place the rest pins along the line we got. This way we marked the hairline (photos 65-66). Attach the thread to the point of the first pin (the top one) and crochet sc along the line of pins, working 1 sl to the loop of each round (photo 67).

We should get 15sc (photo 68). Now crochet the hair strands.

The first hair strand (below)
1 row: make ch16 (photo 69) and crochet from the second ch from the hook 15sc, join with the back loop of the next stitch on the hairline with sl st (16) Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip slip stitch and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 12sc, make ch4, turn (12 + ch4)
3 row: from the 2nd ch from the hook 3sc along the chain, 12sc, join with the back loop of the next stitch on the hairline with sl st (16) (photo 70)

The second, the third, the fourth hair strands
Crochet according to the same pattern as for the first hair strand.

The fifth hair strand
1 row: make ch20 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 19sc, join with the back loop of the next stitch on the
hairline with sl st (20) Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 14sc, make ch5, turn (14 + ch5)
3 row: from the 2nd ch from the hook 4sc along the chain, 14sc, join with the back loop of the next stitch on the hairline with sl st (19)

The sixth hair strand
1 row: make ch19 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 18sc, with the back loop of the next stitch on the
hairline with sl st (19)

The seventh, the eighth, the ninth and the tenth hair strands
1 row: make ch15 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 14sc, join with the back loop of the next stitch on the
hairline with sl st (15) At this stage we finish crocheting the hair strands along one side of the hairline. Don’t cut the thread. Continue crocheting the hair strands along the other side of the hairline.

The first hair strand
1 row: make ch18 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 17sc, join with the same stitch on the hairline (where
we have started to crochet the hair strand) with slip stitch (18)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip slip stitch and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 13sc, make ch5, turn (13 + ch5)
3 row: from the 2nd ch from the hook 4sc along the chain, 13sc, join with the front loop of the next stitch on the
hairline with sl st (18)

The second hair strand
1 row: make ch20 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 19sc, join with the front loop of the next stitch on the
hairline with sl st (20)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip slip stitch and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 15sc, make ch5, turn (15 + ch5)
3 row: from the 2nd ch from the hook 4sc along the chain, 15sc, join with the front loop of the next stitch on the
hairline with sl st (20)

The third, the fourth hair strands
1 row: make ch23 and crochet from the second ch from the hook: 22sc, join with the front loop of the next stitch on the hairline with sl st (23)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip slip stitch and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 18sc, make ch4 (18 + ch4)
3 row: from the 2nd ch from the hook 3sc along the chain, 18sc along the hair strand, join with the front loop of the
next stitch on the hairline with sl st (22)

The fifth, the sixth hair strands
1 row: make ch20 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 19sc, join with the front loop of the next stitch on the
hairline with sl st (20)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip slip stitch and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 17sc, make ch4, turn (17 + ch4)
3 row: from the 2nd ch from the hook 3sc along the chain, 17sc, join with the front loop of the next stitch on the hairline with sl st (21)

The seventh hair strand
1 row: make ch16 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 15sc, join with the front loop of the next stitch on the
hairline with sl st (16)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 12sc, make ch3, turn (12 + ch3)
3 row: from the 2nd ch 2sc along the chain, 12sc, join with the front loop of the next stitch on the hairline with sl st (15)

At this stage we finished crocheting the hair strands along the hairline. Don’t cut the thread. If you have any free loops, then make one more hair strand according to the pattern of the seventh one. Now skip two rounds down from the last stitch on the hairline along the head back and work 1 sc into free front loop of the round (photo 77). We will need to crochet one line of hair strands on the left side near the hairline. Skip the distance of 2 stitches from the hairline and mark the line for hair strands we are going to crochet (photo 78).

The hair strands on the left side near the hairline

The first hair strand (under the hairline)
1 row: make ch13 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 12sc, join with the front loop of the next stitch with sl st (13)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 10sc, make ch3, turn (10 + ch3)
3 row: from the 2nd ch 2sc along the chain, 10sc along the hair strand, join with the front loop of the next stitch with sl st (13)

Now crochet into front loops of the line marked with pins.

The second hair strand
Crochet according to the same pattern as the first one. The third, the fourth, the fifth, the sixth, the seventh hair
strands
1 row: make ch15 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 14sc, join with the front loop of the next round with sl st (15)

Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 12sc, make ch3, turn (12 + ch3)
3 row: from the 2nd ch 2sc along the chain, 12sc along the hair strand, join with the front loop of the next round with sl
st (15)

The eighth hair strand (it will be placed on the forehead above the eyebrow)
1 row: make ch13 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 12sc, join with the front loop on the next round with sl st (13)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 9sc, make ch3, turn (9 + ch3)
3 row: from the 2nd ch 2sc along the chain, 9sc along the hair strand, join with the front loop of the next round with sl st (12)

The last row of the eighth hair strand finishes at one level with the beginning of the hairline. Now we will crochet one
more hair strand at the front of the hairline and will go around it (photo 81), then will continue crocheting one more row of hair strands along the right side stepping 2 stitches from the hairline.

The hair strand in front of the hairline
1 row: make ch12 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 11sc, join with the front loop, skipping 2 rounds from
the hairline with sl st (12)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 11sc, ch, turn (11)
3 row: 11sc along the hair strand, join with the front loop of the next round with sl st (12) (photo 82)

The hair strands on the right side near the hairline

The first hair strand
1 row: make ch13 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 12sc, join with the front loop with sl st, skipping 2 stitches from the hairline (13)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 12sc, ch, turn (12)
3 row: 12sc along the hair strand, join with the front loop of the next round with sl st (13)

The second hair strand
1 row: make ch18 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 17sc, join with the front loop with sl st, skipping 2
stitches from the hairline (18)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet in reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 17sc, ch, turn (17)
3 row: 17sc along the hair strand, join with the front loop of the next round with sl st (18)

The third hair strand
1 row: make ch18 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 17sc, join with the front loop with sl st, skipping 2 stitches from the hairline (18)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 14sc, make ch4, turn (14 + ch4)
3 row: from the 2nd ch 3sc along the chain, 14sc along the hair strand, join with the front loop of the next round with sl st (18)

The fourth hair strand
1 row: make ch20 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 19sc, join with the front loop with sl st, skipping 2
stitches from the hairline (20)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 16sc, make ch4, turn (16 + ch4)
3 row: from the 2nd ch 3sc along the chain, 16sc along the hair strand, join with the front loop of the next round with sl st (20)

The fifth, the sixth hair strands
1 row: make ch22 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 21sc, join with the front loop with sl st, skipping 2 stitches from the hairline (22)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 18sc, make ch4, turn (18 + ch4)
3 row: from the 2nd ch 3sc along the chain, 18sc along the hair strand, join with the front loop of the next round with sl st (22)

The seventh hair strand
1 row: make ch18 and crochet from the second ch from the hook 17sc, join with the front loop with sl st, skipping 2 stitches from the hairline (18)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet in the reverse direction along the hair strand.
2 row: 14sc, make ch4, turn (14 + ch4)
3 row: from the 2nd ch 3sc along the chain, 14sc along the hair strand, join with the front loop of the next round with sl st (18)

I finished crocheting the hair with the seventh hair strand. If you have any space left and if you see that you don’t have enough hair on the head back, you can make 1-2 hair strand according to the pattern of the last one.

Cut the thread and fasten off. Now we are going to sew the wig to the head. We will do it in three steps:

1 step
Sew the wig base to the head, the location stays the same. I didn’t put it off the head, and just removed the pins from the hair strands and lifted them. The photos on the left side and above show us how we should place the wig on the head. Sew it carefully, try to not over-tighten, the edge of the wig shouldn’t be distorted.

2 step
Fix the row of the last hair strands with pins, but leave the tips free. The hair strands shouldn’t be «slicked down» after
sewing. Don’t sew the hair strands near the ear along the whole length, so that we could insert the temples of glasses
under these strands. Sew them so that one hair strand covers the next one slightly, so that the hairstyle looks naturally.
Make 1-2 stitches on each hair strand. Remove the pins.

The next two steps of hair fixing can be made by sewing or by glueing (If the toy is not intended for kids’ active games).

3 step
Spread the hair strands on the rows we crocheted on the left and on the right side from the hairline, and fix them with
pins. Look at the photos in the next page, how they should be approximately located. Pay attention, that I left some space under the hair strands to create an “airy” effect. Sew each hair strand with a couple of stitches.

When sewing you can be guided with my photos or make a hairstyle to your liking. The hair strands on this row should not necessarily cover each other, we will spread the hair strands of the hairline above them. Leave 3-4 stitches on each hair strand free, so that they are slightly sticking out and the hair looks to be disheveled.

4 step
Spread the hair strands of the hairline and fix them with pins. Look at the photos to see how they should be approximately located. Leave three hair strands at the front side without sewing them to the head. Sew the hair strands, making 1-2 stitches on each one. Leave 3-4 stitches on each hair strand also without sewing, so that they are slightly sticking out. You can experiment! There are no strict recommendations!

SCAR:

For the lightening shaped scar embroidery I used a yarn of beige color (which is darker than the body color), having divided it into separate threads. The scar is embroidered with two threads. Pull the thread, skipping 1 round up from the middle of the eyebrow, make a stitch with the length of 3 rounds. Then make the second stitch, skipping two rounds to the right side and one round down. The length of the second stitch also equals 3 rounds. Now join two first stitches with the third diagonal stitch. Weave in the thread tail inside of the head.

PAINTING:

Now it’s time to paint the face of our wizard.
For this purpose you can use hard pastels, acrylic fabric paints or makeup.
Paint the space above the upper eyelids slightly with the brown color to highlight them. Then add some more color under the lower eyelids and shade it along the cheeks. Paint the doll’s cheeks slightly using dusty pink color. We should get a smooth transition from the cheek color to the color under the lower eyelids. Paint the space under the nose (slightly) and the nose sides as well.

If you want to make a mouth for your wizard, then you can paint it with a pink color.
You can experiment, but don’t add too much! Remove excesspaint with a wet wipe.

ASSEMBLY:

All is left to do till our boy is born is to sew the head. Put the doll’s head on the body in the way that the eyes are looking straight. Sew the head. When sewing insert the needle between stitches and go over the stitch body and over the stitch on the neck. Add fiberfill if needed. Weave in the thread tail inside of the toy.

Our wizard is finished! All we left to do is to make a sweater, a cloak and accessories for him!

TROUSERS:

Use Gazzal Baby Cotton yarn of dark grey color. Make ch65 and crochet from the second ch from the hook. At first work several turning rows, where buttons and buttonholes will be located.
1 row: 64sc, ch, turn (64)
Try the piece we got around the doll’s waist, its ends should be located lapped to 1.5 cm.
In the next row we will form a buttonhole.
2 row: 59sc, make ch3, skip 3 stitches, from the 4th stitch 2sc, ch, turn (64)
3 row: 2sc, 3sc along the chain, 59sc, ch, turn (64)
The buttonhole should be located on the left side of the trousers.

4-6 rows: 64sc, ch, turn (64) – 3 rows
7 row: 15sc, inc, 32sc, inc, 15sc, ch, turn (66)
8-14 rows: 66sc, ch, turn (66) – 7 rows
15 row: 16sc, inc, 32sc, inc, 16sc, ch, turn (68)
16-20 rows: 68sc, ch, turn (68) – 5 rows

Join the crocheting in a circle with sl st into the ch of the previous row and make ch4. Count 34 stitches along the
fabric and work sc into the 34th stitch, dividing the work into two parts in this way. Place marker. Now we will crochet each leg separately, working along the wrong side:

21 row: 33sc along the leg, 4sc along the chain, 1sc into the marked stitch (38)
Crochet the legs in rounds without turning ch and without turning the work.
22-52 rows: 38 (38) – 31 rows

Try the trousers on the toy. If the leg is still short, then work a couple of rows more. Finish crocheting, working sl
st into the next stitch (photo 132).

Cut the thread and fasten off. Weave in the thread tail on the wrong side of the piece.
Attach the thread to the middle of the inner side of the trousers (photo 133). Crochet the second leg in the same
way as the first one. If there is a hole left between the legs, just sew it.

Sew the button to the inner side of the trousers, so that it will be invisible when the trousers are fastened.
Weave in the thread tails on the wrong side of the trousers.

The trousers are finished!

Pay attention! If your doll’s waist circumference turned out longer than mine (my wizard has 16 cm
around the top edge of the pants), then take a 2.5 mm crochet hook. And try the clothes as you crochet.

SWEATER:

The sweater is crocheted in turning rows from the top to the bottom. At first we will make two foreparts, then will join
them and at the end will crochet around the sweater and will make details for a V-shaped neckline.
Start crocheting in light grey color. Make ch17 and crochet from the second ch from the hook:

The first forepart
1 row: inc, 15sc, ch, turn (17)
2 row: 7sc, make ch6, skip 8 stitches, from the 9th stitch 1sc, inc, ch, turn (10 + ch6)
3 row: inc, 2sc, 6sc along the chain, 7sc, ch, turn (17)
4 row: 6sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*2, 3sc, inc, ch, turn (21)
5 row: 18sc, inc, 2sc, ch, turn (22)
6 row: 11sc, inc, 9sc, inc, ch, turn (24)
7 row: 24sc, ch, turn (24)
8 row: 23sc, inc (25)
Cut the thread and fasten off.

The second forepart
1 row: 15sc, inc, ch, turn (17)
2 row: inc, 1sc, make ch6, skip 8 stitches, from the 9th stitch 7sc, ch, turn (10 + ch6)
3 row: 7sc, 6sc along the chain, 2sc, inc, ch, turn (17)
4 row: inc, 3sc, (inc, 2sc)*2, inc, 6sc, ch, turn (21)
5 row: 2sc, inc, 18sc, ch, turn (22)
6 row: inc, 9sc, inc, 11sc, ch, turn (24)
7 row: 24sc, ch, tun (24)
8 row: inc, 23sc, ch, turn (25)

Try both forepart on the doll, their size should be like in the photo 139. If the foreparts are small, then you should take a larger crochet hook.
After finishing row 8 on the second forepart don’t cut the thread, crochet row 9, joining two parts.

9 row: 25sc along the second forepart, ch2, 25sc along the first forepart (photo 140), ch, turn (50 + ch2)

10 row: 25sc along the forepart, 2sc along the chain , 25sc along the forepart, ch, turn (52)
11 row: 13sc, inc, 24sc, inc, 13sc, ch, turn (54)
12 row: 6sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 16sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 6sc, ch, turn (58)
13 row: 4sc, inc, 48sc, inc, 4sc, ch, turn (60)
14 row: 10sc, inc, 16sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 16sc, inc, 10sc, ch, turn (64)
15 row: 4sc, inc, 16sc, inc, 20sc, inc, 16sc, inc, 4sc (68)
16 row: 68sc, ch, turn (68) – when crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to golden, make ch and turn the
work, cut the grey thread and fasten off.

17 row: into front loops only 68 sl st, ch, turn (68) – when crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to maroon,
cut the golden thread and fasten off.
18 row: into front loops only 68sc, ch, turn (68) – when crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to golden,
cut the maroon thread and fasten off.

19 row: into both loops 68 sl st, ch, turn (68) – when crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to grey, cut the golden thread and fasten off.
20 row: into front loops only 68sc (68)

Don’t cut the thread. Now we are going to crochet sc around the whole piece. Don’t turn, crochet along the wrong side, working 3sc into each corner, make dec on the chain at the lower point on the neckline (look at the scheme in photo 143).

After we finish crocheting around the piece, don’t cut the thread and leave it for the further work. Weave in all the thread tails on the wrong side of the piece.

Now attach the thread of golden color to the corner on the right forepart (towards you), crochet along the neckline, work along the right side of the piece (photo 144).

Crocheting along the neckline:
1 row: crochet sl st into front loops only
When crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to maroon. Make ch and turn the work. Cut the thread of golden color and fasten off.

2 row: crochet sc into front loops of stitches, making one decrease at the lower point of the neckline (photo 145). When crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to golden.
Make ch and turn the work. Cut the maroon thread and fasten off.

3 row: crochet sl st into front loops of stitches. Cut the thread and fasten off.
Return to the grey thread, which was left after we finished crocheting around the sweater, and crochet 1 turning row across the forepart edge in sc stitch, finish each row with ch. After this crochet the next row, forming the buttonholes (photo 147).

I made ch3 for each buttonhole. And the pattern for this row looks like this: 4sc, (make ch3, skip 3 stitches, 4sc)*3 (25). Then crochet 1 turning row more in sc stitch and cut the thread.

Theh crochet along the edge of the other forepart. Attach the thread to the forepart bottom and crochet several turning rows along the right side of the piece for the placket to sew the buttons. Try the sweater on the doll to decide how many rows you need to crochet for buttons, to fasten the sweater. The number of rows should be odd.

I crocheted 3 turning rows. Place the buttons on the placket and sew them using the thread of light grey color. Make sure that the buttons are located exactly opposite to the buttonholes. If your yarn is too thick for the openings on the
buttons, then divide the strand in half (photo 148).

Don’t cut the thread and crochet one row of slip stitches along the neckline into back loops. Then cut the thread, fasten off and weave in the thread tails on the wrong side of the sweater.

Now make sleeves. Attach the thread to the lower side on one of the sleeve openings and crochet 16sc along the right side:
3sc starting from the middle of the lower side, 1sc into the corner, 8sc along the top side, 1sc into the corner, 3sc along
the lower side, sl st into the first stitch. Make ch and turn the work.

2 row: inc, 15sc, sl st into turning ch, turn, ch (17)
3-26 rows: 17sc, sl st into turning ch, turn, ch (17) – 24 rows
Try the sweater on the doll and crochet additional rows ifneeded.
Cut the thread and fasten off, weave in the thread tails.
Crochet the other sleeve in the same way.

The sweater is ready!

CLOAK:

Crochet the cloak in black color. The cloak is crocheted from top to bottom. Make ch31, crochet from the second
ch from the hook:

1 row: inc, 28sc, inc, ch, turn (32)
2 row: inc, (5sc, inc)2, 6sc, inc, (5sc, inc)2, ch, turn (38)
3 row: inc, 7sc, (inc, 6sc)3, inc, 7sc, inc, ch, turn (44) 4 row: inc, 7sc, (inc, 8sc)3, inc, 7sc, inc, ch, turn (50)
5 row: 2sc, inc, 44sc, inc, 2sc, ch, turn (52)
6 row: 3sc, inc, (2sc, inc)4, 23sc, (inc, 2sc)4, inc, ch, turn (62)

Try the piece on the toy, it should be placed on the shoulders like in photo 151.

7 row: 4sc, inc, 52sc, inc, 4sc, ch, turn (64)
8 row: 5sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 26sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 5sc, ch, turn (68)
9 row: 6sc, inc, 13sc, inc, 26sc, inc, 13sc, inc, 6sc, ch, turn (72)
10 row: 7sc, inc, 14sc, inc, 26sc, inc, 14sc, inc, 7sc, ch, turn (76)
11 row: 76sc, ch, turn (76)
12 row: 9sc, make ch9, skip 14 stitches, from the 15th stitch on the hook 30sc, make ch9, skip 14 stitches, from the 15th stitch from the hook 9sc, ch, turn (66)
13 row: 9sc, 9sc along the chain, 30sc, 9sc along the chain, 9sc, ch, turn (66)
14-15 rows: 66sc, ch, turn (66) – 2 rows
16 row: 7sc, inc, 50sc, inc, 7sc, ch, turn (68)
17-19 rows: 68sc, ch, turn (68) – 3 rows
20 row: 8sc, inc, 50sc, inc, 8sc, ch, turn (70)
21-23 rows: 70sc, ch, turn (70) – 3 rows
24 row: 9sc, inc, 50sc, inc, 9sc, ch, turn (72)
25-33 rows: 72sc, ch, turn (72) – 9 rows

34 row: 10sc, inc, 50sc, inc, 10sc, ch, turn (74)
35-50 rows: 74sc, ch, turn (74) – 16 rows

Don’t cut the thread and make ch, then work sc along the first forepart, then sl st along the neckline and along the
second forepart. After this cut the thread and fasten off. Weave in the thread tail on the wrong side of the piece.

Sleeves:
Attach the thread to the middle point on the lower edge of the hole and make ch1, then work 25sc around the
sleeve opening along the wrong side: 4sc along lower edge starting from the middle, 1sc into the corner, 14sc along
the top edge, 1sc into the corner, 5sc along the lower edge (work the fifth stitch into the stitch where we have the
thread attached), sl st into the first stitch. Make ch and turn the work.
2-7 rows: 25sc, sl st into the turning ch, ch, turn (25) – 6 rows
8 row: inc, 23sc, inc, ch, turn (27)
9-14 rows: 27sc, ch, turn (27) – 6 rows
15 row: inc, 25sc, inc, ch, turn (29)
16-18 rows: 29sc, ch, turn (29) – 3 rows

Don’t make ch after finishing the last row. Try the cloak on the toy. If the sleeves are too short, work a couple of rows more. Cut the thread and fasten off. Weave in the thread tail on the wrong side of the piece. Crochet the second sleeve in the same way.

Hood:
Crochet in black color in turning rows. Make ch27, leaving a long thread tail (about 30 cm) at the beginning for sewing, crochet from the second ch from the hook:

1 row: 26sc, ch, turn (26)
2 row: inc, 24sc, inc, ch, turn (28)
3 row: 28sc, ch, turn (28)

4 row: inc, 26sc, inc, ch, turn (30)
5 row: 30sc, ch, turn (30)
6 row: inc, 28sc, inc, ch, turn (32)
7 row: 32sc, ch, turn (32)
8 row: inc, 30sc, inc, ch, turn (34)
9 row: 34sc, ch, turn (34)

10 row: inc, 32sc, inc, ch, turn (36)

11 row: 36sc, ch, turn (36)
12 row: inc, 34sc, inc, ch, turn (38)
13 row: 38sc, ch, turn (38)
14 row: inc, 36sc, inc, ch, turn (40)
15 row: 40sc, ch, turn (40)
16 row: inc, 38sc, inc, ch, turn (42)
17 row: 42sc, ch, turn (42)
18 row: inc, 40sc, inc (44)

Cut the thread and fasten off, leaving a long thread tail for sewing.
Fold the piece in half and make a seam along the longest side (marked with an arrow in photo 157). Fasten off the thread and weave in the thread tail at the wrong side of the piece.

Sew the hood to the cloak to the front loops of the black row starting from the middle of the first sleeve till the middle of the other one. Fasten off the thread and weave in the thread tails at the wrong side of the cloak.

Your cloak is finished!

SCARF:

Crochet in maroon and golden color, use 2.5 mm crochet hook. Start crocheting with the yarn of maroon color. Make
ch7 and crochet from the second ch from the hook:

1-6 rows: 6sc, ch, turn (6) – 6 rounds – when working the last stitch change the thread color to golden, don’t cut the thread of maroon color.
7-8 rows: 6sc, ch, turn (6) – 2 rounds – when working the last stitch change the thread color to maroon, don’t cut the
thread of golden color.
9-10 rows: 6sc, ch, turn (6) – 2 rounds – when working the last stitch change the thread color to golden, don’t cut the
thread of maroon color.
11-12 rows: 6sc, ch, turn (6) – 2 rounds – when working the last stitch change the thread color to maroon, cut the
thread of golden color.

Repeat from the 1st to the 12th rows 8 times more. Then crochet 6 rows more in maroon color, cut the thread and
fasten off.
Now be patient and weave in all the thread tails inside of the stitches using a needle (photo 163).

GLASSES:

For glasses you can use 1 or 1.5 mm aluminium wire (choose the width you like more). I like the thinner frame, so I took 1 mm wire. But the glasses might be bent very easily because of the thin wire. Therefore you shouldn’t put them on and off frequently.

Also we will need any stuff of cylindrical shape and of needed diameter to form the frame. I used a glue stick with the
diameter of 3 cm.
Take the wire we prepared and measure the distance from the ear till the eye. This part will be the right temple. Skip this piece and form a circle of the first lens using the cylindrical stuff (photo 166).

Bring the wire till the middle of the lens till the point where we will start forming a bridge (at the same level with the right temple). Form the bridge and try the glasses on the wizard to find out, where we should start forming the frame of the second lens (photo 167).
Then form the frame of the second lens and the left temple in the same way. Cut the excess length using the wire cutters.

Our glasses are ready! Put them on the wizard, inserting the temples between the hair strands.

Let’s start making accessories! They will help our wizard to fight the dark forces!

HAT:

Crochet with the yarn of brown color in a spiral. 2-10 rounds are crocheted into front loops only. The last rounds are
crocheted into both loops of stitches, except for the stitches,which are specially marked.

1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6sc (6)
3 round: (inc, 2sc)2 (8) 4 round: 8sc (8) 5 round: (inc, 3sc)2 (10)
6 round: 10sc (10)
7 round: (inc, 4sc)2 (12) 8 round: 12sc (12) 9 round: (inc, 5sc)2 (14)
10 round: 7inc, 7sc (21)
11 round: into front loops only 14sc, into both loops 7sc (21)
12 round: 14sc into front loops of round 11 and at once into back loops of round 10, into both loops 7sc (21)
13 round: into both loops (inc, 1sc)*7, 7sc (28)
14-16 rounds: 28sc (28) – 3 rounds
17 round: into front loops 21inc, into both loops 7sc (49)
18 round: into front loops 42sc, into both loops 7sc (49)

19 round: 42sc into front loops of round 18 and at once into back loops of round 16, into both loops 7sc (49)
Work or unravel 2-3sc additionally to shift the stitch marker to the middle of the hat, like in photo 171.
20 round: 16sc, (inc, 1sc)4, 1sc, (1sc, inc)4, 16sc (57)
21 round: 1sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 43sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 1sc (53)
22-23 rounds: 53sc (53) – 2 rounds
24 round: (4hdc, hdc inc)2, (5sc, inc)2, 8sc, inc, (5sc, inc)2, (4hdc, hdc inc)2 (62)
25 round: (5hdc, hdc inc)2, (6sc, inc)2, 9sc, inc, (6sc, inc)2, (5hdc, hdc inc)2 (71)
26 round: 71sc (71)

Crochet or unravel 1-2sc additionally to shift the stitch marker to the middle of the back side of the hat.

27 round: 24sc, 23inc, 24sc (94)
28 round: 94sc (94)
29 round: 24sc, 46sc into front loops only, 24sc (94)
30-33 rounds: 94sc (94) – 4 rounds
34 round: 24sc, 46sc into both loops of the previous round and at the same time into back loops left in round 28, 24sc (94)
35 round: 24sc, 23dec, 24sc (71)
36 round: 17sc, inc, (2sc, inc)2, 11sc, inc, 11sc, (inc, 2sc)2, inc, 17sc (78)
37 round: 38sc, 2inc, 38sc (80)

In the next round we will form the eyes, and to make it we need to pick two ends of the large fold up, crocheting stitches through the fold stitches.

38 round: 25sc, now crochet 3sc, inserting the hook under the stitch on the large fold and at the same time into the next stitch on the round (photo 178), 24sc, now crochet 3sc, inserting the hook under the stitch on the large fold and at the same time into the next stitch on the round, 25sc (80)
Now find two middle stitches on the large fold to form the nose bridge. It’s very important to make the eyes to be both the same size.
39 round: 16sc, (inc, 3sc)2, inc, 14sc, crochet 2sc, inserting the hook under the middle stitch on the large fold and at the same time into the next stitch on the round, 14sc, (inc, 3sc)2, inc, 16sc (86)
40 round: 42sc, 2inc, 42sc (88)
41 round: 43sc, 2inc, 43sc (90)

42 round: 24sc, into front loops only 42sc, 24sc (90)
43 round: 24sc, 42sc into both loops of the stitches on the previous round and into the back loops left in round 41, 24sc (90)

Pay attention to the marker location, it should be located in the middle of the back side of the hat.

44 round: into front loops only (1sc, inc)8, into both loops 27sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 27sc, into front loops only (1sc, inc)8 (108)
45 round: into front loops only 24sc, into both loops 60sc, into front loops only 24sc (108)
46 round: into both loops (1sc, dec)8, 27sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 27sc, (1sc, dec)8 (94)
47 round: 16sc into both loops of the previous round and at the same time into the back loops left in round 43, 62sc, 16sc into both loops of the previous round and into the back loops left in round 44 (94)

48-49 rounds: 94sc (94) – 2 rounds
50 round: into both loops 28sc, into front loops only 38sc, into both loops 28sc (94)
51 round: into both loops 94sc (94)
52 round: 28sc, 38sc into both loops of the previous round and at the same time into the back loops left in round 49, 28sc (94)
53 round: 38sc, 9dec, 38sc (85)
54 round: into both loops 24sc, into front loops only 14sc, 9inc, 14sc, into both loops 24sc (94)
55 round: into both loops 24sc, into front loops only 46sc, into both loops 24sc (94)
56 round: into both loops (2sc, inc)7, 3sc, into front loops only 46sc, into both loops 3sc, (2sc, inc)7 (108)
57 round: into front loops 108sc (108)

58 round: into front loops only 31sc, 46sc into both loops of the previous round and into the back loops left in round 54, into front loops only 31sc (108)
59 round: into front loops only (3sc, inc)7, 8sc, (inc, 3sc)9, 8sc, (inc, 3sc)7 (131)

60-61 rounds: into front loops only 131sc (131) – 2 rounds

62 round: 50sc into both loops of stitches of the previous round and at the same time into the back loops left in round 59, into front loops only 26sc, 55sc into both loops of stitches of the previous round and at the same time into the back loops left in round 59 (131)

63 round: into both loops of stitches (1sc, dec (I worked decreases in a regular way (classic decreases)))16, 2sc, 26sc
into both loops of stitches of the previous round and at the same time into the back loops left in round 61, into both loops of stitches 1sc, (1sc, dec)*18 (97)

64 round: into the front loops only (1sc, inc)48, 1sc (145)

65-66 rounds: into both loops of stitches 145sc (145) – 2 rounds 67 round: (4sc, inc)8, 65sc, (inc, 4sc)*8 (161)
68-70 rounds: 161sc (161) – 3 rounds
Cut the thread and fasten off. Weave in the thread tail.

Side straps

Put the hat on the doll and mark the stitches where we will crochet a strap. The wide of the strap should equal 8 stitches and finish at the level of the ear. Attach the thread to the back loop of the stitch in round 64 at the ear level. Crochet in turning rows.
1-15 rows: 8sc, ch, turn (8) – 15 rows
16 row: dec, 4sc, dec, ch, turn (6)
17 row: 3dec (3)

Cut the thread and fasten off, weave in the thread tail. Make the second strap on the other side of the hat. Decide with the location in the same way. The distance between two my straps turned out 48 stitches.

The back part

The width of the back part should equal 25 stitches. It should be located in the middle of the distance between the straps. Attach the thread to the back loop of the stitch in round 64. Work in turning rows. Crochet 25sc in the middle of the back side of the hat into free loops in round 64. I got free 7 stitches left till both straps. This row will be the first one.

2-4 rows: 25sc, ch, turn (25) – 3 rows
5 row: dec, 21sc, dec, ch, turn (23)
6 row: dec, 19sc, dec, ch, turn (21)
7 row: 2dec, 13sc, 2dec, ch, turn (17)
8 row: 2dec, 9sc, 2dec, ch, turn (13)
9 row: 2dec, 5sc, 2dec, ch, turn (9)
Cut the thread and fasten off, weave in the thread tail on the wrong side of the piece.

Knot:

Make ch41 and crochet from the second ch from the hook: 40sc. Cut the thread and fasten off. Tie a knot in the middle of the piece. Sew above the hat brim in the middle of the hat back.

The hat is ready!

MAGIC SWORD:

Crochet in dark grey color in a spiral. Make ch5 and crochet from the second ch from the hook:

1 round: inc, 2sc, 3sc into one stitch, 2sc, 1sc into the last stitch (where we have worked the first increase) (10)
2 round: 2inc, 2sc, 3inc, 2sc, inc (16)
3-5 rounds: 16sc (16) – 3 rounds
6 round: 2dec, 2sc, 3dec, 2sc, dec (10) – photo 195
7 round: into back loops only 10sc (10)
8-14 rounds: into both loops of stitches 10sc (10) – 7 rounds – when crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to grey (the color changing point should be located exactly in the middle of the sword side (photo 197)). Cut the dark grey thread and fasten off.

15 round: into back loops only 10sc (10)
16-55 rounds: 10sc (10) – 40 rounds
Crochet several sc additionally so that the next decrease is located exactly in the middle of the sword side. Insert the flat wooden stick.

56 round: (dec, 3sc)*2 (8)
57 round: 8sc (8)
58 round: make ch3, work 4dc together, leaving a tail (photo 199). Now we have 4 stitches left. Close the opening on the other side of the sword, inserting the needle into the stitches left and into the loops of double crochet stitches, making diagonal stitches (photo 200). Weave in the thread tail carefully inside.

Make long stitches along the sword sides using the thread of grey color. If there is a space left between the stitches and the sword, you can glue them carefully, applying a small amount of transparent glue on the stitches.
Then take the thread of dark grey color and divide it in half.
Make stitches in the same way in the middle of the sword blade on both sides. Weave in the thread tails inside of the piece.

Attach the thread of dark grey color to the front loops left in round 14, hold the sword with the blade facing towards you, crochet 4 rounds with 10sc around. Finish crocheting with sl st, cut the thread and fasten off, weave in the thread tail inside of the piece.

Side parts (make 2)
Crochet in dark grey color.
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: (inc, 2sc)2 (8) 3 round: (dec, 2sc)2 (6)
4-5 rounds: 6sc (6) – 2 rounds

Cut the thread and fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Take the thread of red color and embroider red stones on the part tips, inserting the needle under the stitches of the first round (photos 204-205).
Embroider a large stone on the sword handle, the diameter should be about 3-4 stitches. I marked stitches crisscross. Then make stitches around the stone contour. Weave in the thread tail inside of the piece.

Now see the side parts to the sword handle above round 14.
Weave in the thread tails inside of the piece.

The sword is finished!